2013 Domaine de L’Ecu, Melon de Bourgogne “Carpe Diem” Vin de France, Sans Soufre, Loire Valley, France.
Fred Niger’s most exclusive white from his world renown Domaine de L’Ecu is his Carpe Diem, it’s basically a special version of his estate grown Muscadet, being 100% Melon de Bourgogne, but raised for 15 months in amphora, plus with an extra year of aging in bottle before release with no sulfur added. It’s a leesy and rich wine with incredible textural presence in the glass and while opulent in mouth feel it remains true to terroir and varietal with loads of saline and oyster shell notes and crisp apple fruit on the multi layered palate. Everything starts with a mix of aromas that includes white flowers, grilled citrus, chalk dust and a hint of natural funkiness before opening up to quince, that mentioned apple, kumquat and melon fruits as well as a touch roof tiles, dried herbs and almond oil in a glycerin pack expression of Melon. This is a wine for the geeky wine enthusiast, it will thrill the natural wine crowd and those that typically love Jura stuff, as it reminds me a bit of an aged Savagnin. Fred’s basic or classique Muscadet is one of the world’s great value whites and his soil separated versions are like Premier Cru wines, this is a must try estate in the Loire Valley, he’s also killing it with these unique clay pot raised wines, especially his Cabernet Franc(s) and the gorgeous whole cluster Ange Pinot Noir, which is one of my favorite wines! While maybe not to everyone’s taste this Carpe Diem by Domaine de L’Ecu, imported by Floraison Selections, is a rare and intellectual wine that is wonderfully weird that leaves me in utter fascination.
($50 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

By admin