2013GroissReserve2013 Weingut Ingrid Groiss, Gruner Veltliner, Weinvietel Reserve, In Der Schablau, Austria.
The Groiss Reserve in a much denser, richer and sweeter version of Gruner Veltliner, but with fabulous energy and balance, this is remarkable stuff that feels almost about spatlese in weight and feel. This deeper and more hedonistic wine is fairly unique, as we almost always see bone dry selections of this varietal, so it kind of throws you off a bit, being off-dry sweet, and want to compare it to Riesling, and Groiss does a fantastic job here, making a stylish and complex Gruner that while honeyed and lush also holds it’s fruit and weight in check with vigorous acidity, mineral tones and a nice play of salty/savory elements that adds dimension. The nose is lightly floral with spice, citrus, marzipan and baked peach leading to a full and decedent palate with gorgeous mouth feel with a mix of stone fruits, almond paste and wet stones. A hint of dried pineapple, saline, oyster shells, steely notes, white currant and honeycomb add complexity and there is a lingering finish of lemon/lime, minty herbs and summer melon. This was quite a treat and was amazing with spicy Chinese cuisine and curry with enough fruity character to refresh the palate and give heightened pleasure, this was a winner from start to finish. 2013 was a spectacular vintage, especially for Groiss, I wish I had got another few bottles to cellar, this one in particular would be interesting to follow, though I do admire her 2014’s as well, her drier wines are some of my favorites of the year. Drink this opulent Reserve In Der Schablau Gruner Veltliner over the next 3 to 5 years, I imagine it should be best from 2016 to 2020.
($28 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive

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