n.v. Weingut Von Winning, Riesling Sekt, Extra Brut Sparkling Wine, Pfalz Germany.
I’m lucky to have enjoyed this exciting Riesling Sparkler on a few occasions now, I love its intensity, crisp detail and briskly dry profile that makes it celebratory, but sublime with meals, especially first courses or as an aperitif to whet the palate. German bubbles are incredible and this one is a classy example at a reasonable price, not to be outdone by by Prosecco, the Cremants of Alsace, the Loire and Burgundy and Champagne even, these modern Sekt(s) are stylish, elegant and full of personality, with this one in the mold of one of my favorite small Champagne house, Agrapart with its cool invigorating mineral tones and extreme dry flavors. Von Winning is one of Germany’s top wineries, based in the chalky sandstone soiled Pfalz region, with an exceptional range of wines, especially their absolutely awesome series of Grosses Gewachs (Grand Cru) Rieslings, though there is excellence throughout the collection here and as I have noted in my prior reviews, Von Winning does one of the finest Sauvignon Blanc(s) in the world too. The Extra Brut Riesling Sekt is vibrant and steely from the start with a mix of zesty citrus and peachy fruits, a hint of wet stones, leesy/yeasty notes and a faint floral element all of which folds together nicely and vigorously on the energy driven light to medium bodied palate that gains texture with air, but stays firmly taut with an expressive, subtly luxurious small bubbled mousse. This is delicious stuff, I’m so happy after a lengthy wait that the Von Winning sparkling Riesling is more readily available in the States.
The Von Winning estate founded in 1849, located in Deidesheim, owns and farms, all organically, some of the oldest plots in the best Grosses Gewächs vineyards in the region, with their historic parcels divided in the Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg zones of the Pfalz and have the talents of Stephan Attmann in the cellar, who is inspired by the great wines of Burgundy and has put in place many tried and true Cote d’Or practices in place here, both in the vineyard with high density and Burgundy style pruning as well as winemaking techniques in the winery. These methods, which include small barrels in the elevage and all gravity flow (gentle) handling of the wines have lead to worldwide acclaim and as mentioned their dry Rieslings are unique, richly flavored and are as beautifully compelling as any top white Burgundy, including the best from Meursault, Corton-Charlemagne and even the fabled Le Montrachet. Anyone who’s had Von Winning’s Kirchenstück, Kalkofen, Ungeheuer and or Pechstein GG’s will instantly recognize the greatness in the glass, trust me these are outrageously good wines. Back to the sparkler, I highly recommend grabbing some of this fine bubbly and celebrate any of life’s happier moments and wallet allowing, add a few of the single vineyard Trockens, especially those GG’s, as well as the Paradiesgarten, which is an awesome value. The Von Winning Sekt is crafted in the classic methode champenoise style with 100% Riesling being used, sourced from, as the winery notes, a selection of different vineyards close to Deidesheim on loess-clay and red sandstone soils with a lengthy period on the lees. There’s a lot to explore here at Von Winning and I suggest sampling any and all of their offerings.
($28 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive