2019 Terroir Al Limit “Terroir Històric Negre” D.O.Q. Priorat Tinto, Catalunya, Spain.
The sexy, aromatic and opulent 2019 Terroir Històric Negre Priorat Red is wonderfully pure, textural and authentic in the glass with a Chateauneuf du Pape like intensity and richness, showing off a deep garnet/ruby color and a mix of dark berries, plum, cherry and pomegranate fruits, that are accented by anise, wild sage, cinnamon, a touch of earth and brambles. Made primarily from Garnatxa Negra (Grenache), along with a small dose of Carinyena (Carignan), coming from higher elevation plots of 35 to 50 year old vines, which the winery says are, set on a combination of clay and limestone mainly, but as well as some on alluvial soils and some schist, which helps provide some freshness and minerality to go with the deep concentration of fruit. In many ways this wine reminds me of Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas and some of their cement raised Côte du Rhône cuvées, which is fantastic in my book, but uniquely its own and with its expressive and spicy whole cluster personality.
The Terroir Al Limit has old vines planted to Garnatxa Negra and Carinyena for their red wines, along with Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu for the whites, which all are hand harvested, with direct, whole cluster pressing for the whites, and whole cluster fermentation for the reds, as seen here, all with indigenous yeast, and fermented and aged in concrete tanks exclusively. Proprietors Jaume Sabaté, Carlos Masia and the very influential Dominik Huber, along with the talented winemaker Tatjana Peceric, have made this small label one of the most sought after in the Priorat region of Spain with Terroir Al Limit winery now having world wide fame, especially with the speciality importer Eric Solomon at European Cellars getting them into the hands of the American market. This no oak Negre, typically 75% Garnatxa Negra and 25% Carinyena, which saw six months in the large concrete tank, is from certified organic parcels, which don’t get any irrigation, that produce almost impossibly small yields, really highlights the intensity and seriousness of this fiercely independent Catalan Mediterranean terroir. This wine is a stellar value and a savvy buy for Rhône and Spanish wine lovers and I highly recommend looking for this intriguing red and enjoy them for between 3 and 5 years.
($35 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive