2023 Weingut Max Fred. Richter, Riesling Spatlese, Elisenberg, Mosel, Germany.
The gorgeous 2023 Richter Elisenberg Spatlese shows off loads of mineral driven intensity, but with this unique monopole vineyard’s quartzite giving a lush roundness and generous yellow fruit profile, making for a profound off dry Riesling of substance and grace in the glass. This was a star in the latest set of offerings from the historic Weingut Max Fred. Richter that was able to try recently at a tasting in New York with Constantin Richter. This Spatlese starts with lemony tones, peach stone fruit, green apple and subtle pineapple, along with a steely essence, delicate florals, a smooth sense of acidity, white currant, wet flint, chamomile and a hint of lime sorbet. For this wine Richter did a six hour maceration and cold settling before fermentation and aging in old fuder, Germany oak barrels, which has led to a serious wine of vitality and texture, more than overt sweetness, drink this beauty for another decade or more.
I was thrilled to meet and taste with Constantin Richter, of the Weingut Max Ferdinand Richter, which has been owned by the Richter family for more than 300 years and makes some of the Mosel’s most compelling wines. Richter is focused on Riesling, grown in the heart of the central Mosel area with total holdings of 43 acres and an annual production of about 10,500 cases, much of which is exported throughout the world. Richter has some incredible vineyard holdings, such as Erdener Treppchen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, and Brauneberger Juffer, but also two coveted sites, Mülheimer Helenenkloster and the noted monopoleVeldenzer Elisenberg, seen in this wine. The terroirs play a huge role in the distinction of each of their wines, with steep vineyard sites mostly on weathered grey slate, along with, what the winery says are different compositions of ferruginous (Brauneberg), mineral quartz (Veldenz), or clay soils (Graach, Erden, Wehlen, Mülheim), adding to the complexity in the bottles.
($30 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive