2016 Domaine Bernard Boisson-Vadot, Meursault “Les Chevalieres” White Burgundy, France.
The 2016 Les Chevalieres Meursault from winemakers Anne and Pierre Boisson is really hitting its stride and mature in character with a rich mouth feel and lots of stony and mineral intensity showing leesy layers of golden apple, peach, pear and dried pineapple fruits, along with brioche, hazelnut, anise and light toast notes. There is plenty of lemony toned acidity to keep everything thrilling on the pretty full bodied palate, which the winery calls a racy here on the Chevalieres, which is now bottled under the Anne Boisson label, it is a lieu-dit that has vines that were replanted in 1982 on the chalky limestone and clay soils, that gives a bit extra in core mineral element. I was impressed how this Meursault kept getting better and better in the glass, and not ever having this winery’s efforts, it was a treat to experience this Les Chevalieres with food and friends, it doesn’t get much better than that. The aromatics do hint to a bit of age, but it still has a reductive flinty earthy edge and delicate white flower note, this Domaine Boisson Meursault has just the right amount of toasty oak sweetness, vanilla and smoke to compliment the steely, but dense fruit.
The Domaine Bernard Boisson-Vadot is creating a lot of buzz and is a must have label crafting some exceptional Meursault wines, with Bernard giving way to his son and daughter, Pierre Boisson and Anne Boisson who are now established stars in the region. The Boissons, with a long history in winemaking, have been vignerons in Meursault for more than two centuries and while not a household name in the States, Anne and Pierre Boisson, who is notably an old, school-age friend with Raphael Coche, son of Jean-François Coche of Domaine Coche-Dury, and the two often discuss winemaking and viticultural philosophies, which has sparked a lot of interest in their small lot wines that come mostly from top sites and old vines. The wines at Domaine Bernard Boisson-Vadot are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and, as the winery notes, go to barrel with little or no settling of the lees, and then after which they mature with a long élévage, with the Meursault seeing close to 19-22 months in the oak, with very little new oak being used, with this one usually seeing 25% new wood. This fine terroir driven wine, slightly reductive still, with a touch of candied fennel, is a very serious Chardonnay that should continue to please for another 3 to 5 years easily, and this is a winery to follow for Burgundy enthusiasts, with 2020 looking like vintage to buy.
($225 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive