2014CantinaCenciWhite2014 Cantina Cenci, Anticello, Grechetto IGT Umbria, Italy.
This Umbrian white is a very pure and beautiful, an all natural wine with just a tiny amount of sulfur added at bottling, imported by Bliss Wine Imports, a new portfolio of interesting low production natural European wines, all of which are made without chemicals and all estate grown grapes. Cantina Cenci’s winemaker has been making wines in ancient vineyards since he was 4 years old and now crafts a few whites and reds from organic vines south of Perugia in the hills of Italy’s Umbria region, his Rosso made from Sangiovese and Merlot is also wonderfully textural with deep red fruits, but I adored Cantina Cenci’s crisp Grechetto Anticello with gusto, it shined with grilled octopus and a mixed shellfish dish which highlighted it’s refreshing character and bright flavors, it’s a winner. Grechetto is the native star white varietal of central Italy and in particular Umbria where it is the heart of Orvieto, it’s most acclaimed region, and Cantina Cenci makes one of the finest non Orvieto examples I’ve tasted in recent years. The fresh citrus leads, but gives way to green apple and stone fruits on the palate with a tight band of acidity and a light mineral/steely briskness makes this an appealing summer wine, but it reacts well with cuisine and turns on the charm, like mentioned, especially seafood, it is an easy quaffer that doesn’t put a foot wrong. A tiny amount of free SO2, though not at all spritzy, adds zest and keeps the profile clear and persistent throughout, it is a slight flaw that is easily forgiven in this pretty white that gains a little weight with air, but always stays focused. There’s a sense of white peach, saline, wet pebbles, minty herb and lemon/lime that comes through that entertains and the finish makes you want another sip, this is tasty and fun stuff, thanks again to Alleah Friedrichs and Erin Geyer of Bliss Wine Imports for sharing one of their discoveries, drink this small production hand crafted Grechetto over the next 3 to 5 years, impressive.
($24 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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