2015 Joh. Jos. Prum, Riesling Auslese, Wehlener Sonnenhuhr, Mosel Germany. (375ml)
J.J. Prum, founded in 1911 (which is young for such a heralded winery in Germany) is one of the world’s great wineries as well as being a top Mosel or German estate with an amazing history and collection of fantastic wines, when I was starting in the wine business, one of my first magical epiphanies came from tasting a set of J. J. Prum wines from Kabinett to Auslese, it was a moment that changed my whole understanding of Riesling, sweetness and balance, these wines revealed terroir, they removed the sigma of sugar levels and gave me the insight, that not only can Riesling thrill the palate with sexy hedonism, but can be vigorous like a red wine wine with power/extract and structure. From then to now, I’ve always held this winery in high regard, if you want an elite Mosel you’d never go wrong with Joh. Jos. Prum, these are wines in an echelon that includes Willi Schaefer, Selbach-Oster and Dr Loosen, they are a traditional and classic producer most famous for their glorious higher must weight wines, and wines like this 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, that while densely sweet is also remarkably focused and svelte (openly transparent) with amazing depth of character, most would consider a wine like this nectar of the gods! Brilliant and lightly golden in the glass with a smoky/flint bouquet that slowly unfolds, as this young (baby) starts to wake with air gains floral and spice notes along with clear stone fruits with a non botrytis seriousness. Understanding Auslese is still a confusing art, it is a fruity wine, though not strictly a dessert wine, in fact it is much more than that and can be matched with many cuisines and is one of the true pleasures of the wine world, these are wines that can be sipped alone, can be an aperitif with fruit and cheeses and brilliant with fiery Asian dishes as well as be enjoyed with savory foods from smoked meats to pate. This wonderful Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr opens on the palate with intense liquid mineral, apricot, peach, dried ginger, rose oil, wet shale/rock, vibrant though ripe creamy citrus (mandarin orange) saline/brine, honeycomb and tropical essences all which form a textural nirvana of mouth feel and depth, while still remaining firm and not cloying at all, it’s that almost perfect scale of tension and release with it’s stony vitality, brisk acidity and sweet opulence. Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a rocky site of blue slate, which gives this beautiful wine it’s soul, it was crafted by Dr. Katharina Prum, who has been working along side her father Dr. Manfred Prum, who took this estate to it’s stunner heights after taking over in 1969, and were founding members of the VDP, they only make wines with residual sugar, usually fermented with wild/natural yeasts and aged in large German oak cask, all from old vine plots in four of Germany’s great vineyards, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr and Bernkasteler Badstube. Imported by Rudi Wiest, J.J. Prum is a standard barer winery and a must try wine if you want to explore Germany’s traditional masterpieces, these are wines of enteral life and cellar with exceptional pureness and rewarding grace, and this 2015 is set for many decades of pleasure. Do. Not. Fear. (Sugar)
($40 Est. Half Bottle) 96 Points, grapelive
