2019 Domaine Monthélie-Douhairet-Porcheret, Monthélie 1er Cru “Le Mieux Bataille” Côte de Beaune, Red Burgundy, France.
In recent years I’ve really grown fond of these Domaine Douhairet-Porcheret, made by Cataldina Lippo, André Porcheret’s granddaughter and her husband Vincent, who has taking these wines forward since she took over in 2004 and the latest releases are really lovely wines, including this beautiful 2019 Le Mieux Bataille Premier Cru Monthélie. This vintage, a bit lighter and high toned in style is perfectly matched between fruit and acidity with a medium bodied palate with black cherry, strawberry, red currant and blood orange fruits, a toasty oak smokiness, delicate mineral and earth tones, satiny tannins and a touch of rose petal florals. This cuvée comes from sustainable grapes all hand harvested and carefully sorted both in the vines, which are set on classic clay and limestone soils, and in the cellar. The Le Mieux Bataille is 100% de-stemmed, then is fermented with indigenous yeasts in open top wood vats for 12 to 20 days on the skins with daily pump overs and punch downs. The Pinot Noir is then aged in French oak barrels, with Tronçais barriques employed, using about 10% new wood, for 18 months. This pretty ruby colored Monthélie 1er Cru “Le Mieux Bataille” opens nicely and gains depth and detail with every sip and lingers nicely on the finish showing good balance, clarity and going great with a wide range of cuisine choice. This vineyard site used here is a tiny parcel in Monthélie, just a few miles south-west down the valley from the village, which is sandwiched between Auxey-Duresses and Volnay, not far from Pommard, is planted entirely to Pinot Noir.
The historic Domaine Douhairet-Porcheret located in Monthélie, also has vines in Pommard, Volnay, and Meursault and is over 300 years old and sits at heart of Monthélie in the center of the village. The founding Douhairet family ran Monthélie Douhairet (as it was called) for many years and generations, and then In 1989, Mademoiselle Douhairet asked renowned winemaker André Porcheret to take charge and added his name to the domaine, that now has his granddaughter and her husband running the winery here. It should not be overlooked at just how highly regarded André Porcheret was, considered a traditionalist by many, he also pushed quality forward in the region, leading the legendary Lalou Bize-Leroy to hire him to become the winemaker at the newly created Domaine Leroy, where he shined between 1988 and 1993. He never stopped making his own wines at his Domaine Douhairet-Porcheret and they have been a study in charm and quality ever since. Cataldina Lippo’s Burgundy offerings and especially her signature Monthélie 1er Crus are still wonderful values, compellingly transparent and luxurious wines. The Premier Cru lieu dit Le Mieux Bataille in the Côte de Beaune was first planted back in the 16th century and is situated only a few minutes away from the winery and, as their importer Martine’s Wines notes, on the edge of the first hillsides of Monthélie, with south-facing exposure, and includes a picturesque backdrop of Volnay. I am excited to try Domaine Monthélie-Douhairet-Porcheret’s 2020 vintage too, as I’ve heard they are looking to be even better than the 2017, 2018 and 2019s, which I really enjoyed and recommend.
($60 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive