2015SelbachBomer2015 Weingut Selbach-Oster, Riesling Trocken “Bomer” Schlossberg, Mosel Germany.
Johannes Selbach’s new wine, the Bomer, is a dry, but lush Riesling from a single parcel of steep old vines in Schlossberg, that looks down on the church (and the Mosel) and is formed from the slate and reflected light. This pure Mosel is a stunning wine with crisp and crunchy mineral tones, flinty spices and gripping and focused fruit, balanced by almost creamy textural mouth feel, for such a young Riesling it has such grace and class, it will move you, this is glorious wine. The Bomer is not as dense or weighty as Schmitt, Rotlay or Anrecht, but my God is it good and sexy in way only Riesling can be sometimes, it gives all those tingly sensations of the acidity, though the extract makes you smile inside the same way you find you do when you have a great red Burgundy! Usually when tasting Selbach, you just don’t care whether there is sugar or lots of sugar, such is the fine balance and finesse it doesn’t matter at all, but here it does make a difference, this is a special case, this is a vintage that really delivers an impact in the Trocken (dry) wines and in this one it highlights that nature, it looks set to be a legend in this style for this winery. The nose is still shy, though perfume emerges with liquid rose petal, citrus blossom and spiced white fig? A hint of orange, key-lime and dried pineapple helping set a palate of mineral laced white and yellow fruits with wet shale, mango/passion fruit and zesty unripe green apple. With air you get classical apricot, tangy lime, tangerine sorbet and white anise/jasmine tea. This charming and steely Riesling floods your senses with flavors, but remains tightly wound and firmly under control, this wine is really a steal at the pre-offer price that is available, you’ll want to get your hands on this one, trust me, and while 2015 is looking like a great vintage for dry Riesling, look also for Selbach’s Graacher Alte Reben and the Sonnenuhr Ur Alte Reben, but do NOT miss your chance to get your hands on Selbach-Oster’s Spatlese and Auslese, especially the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spatlese, which I will review soon as well, it’s spectacular as well, Johannes gave a little wink when I tasted these two with him, so I’m pretty sure he thinks they were something just that little bit more special in a gorgeous lineup of proudly made wines! The 2015 Bomer doesn’t need much in the way of patience, though it should be very rewarding to put a few bottles away for 5 to 10 years, this beauty easily could be my desert island wine, drink over the next decade!
($29 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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