2013 Sean Thackrey, Pinot Noir, Andromeda, Devil’s Gulch Ranch, Marin County.
The nose is wildly pure Thackrey, it is full of alpine herbs, amaro like, and with minty eucalyptus notes with rose oil and red berry, this can be no other wine. Sean Thackrey is an icon of weird, but lovable wines, they are more about personality than terroir and while this wine instantly makes itself known to be a Thackrey wine it is gorgeous texturally and the palate is pure silky Pinot in character showing rich cherry, raspberry and plum fruit and balanced detail with a lingering exotic finish. Getting past the aromatics and intriguing mix of spices with be tough for some, but Thackrey fans will swoon and be heaven sent over this Devil’s Gulch Ranch Andromeda 2013, it has similar qualities to his Pleaides Old Vine Red, I was smiling with every sip and swirl, it is very interesting wine and somewhat addictive, even though it will be a bit of a shock at first and certainly it is not for everyone. Pleasing and with a lot of flair, the latest Andromeda fits nicely into Thackrey’s lineup along side Orion and the mentioned Pleaides, and just like France has it’s Jura weirdness we in California have our Thackrey weirdness, both admired for being true to themselves and for the uniqueness they celebrate. Devil’s Gulch Ranch set into the wilds of West Marin, somewhere between Fairfax and Point Reyes is an extremely cool climate site and is surrounded by a dense forest of coastal pine and redwoods, not far from Sean Thackrey’s home base in Bolinas. If you know and love Thackrey, you’ll want this curious Pinot Noir and cherish it’s complexities and graces, while I may not encourage the masses to rush out and explore it, but I cherish it’s difference and again it’s mouth feel is a thing of beauty with smooth layers and a solid core of fruit along with cedar, cinnamon, pepper, lavender/sage and a touch of framboise adding to it’s array, drink this over the next 3 to 5 years.
($60 Est.) 91+ Points, grapelive