2013 Domaine Bruno Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet, En Remilly, Premier Cru White Burgundy, France.
Bruno & Stephanie Colin’s latest set of Chassagne’s are wonderfully intriguing wines and are some of the best and most exciting from this domaine to date, they are right up there with the Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, cementing the Colin heritage of great white Burgundy! These serious Chassagne expressions all are worthy of your attention and merit their own note, but for me the En Remilly was the most dynamic and expressive with electric like energy, poise and length, maybe not as elegant as the Morgeot or as old school as Les Chaumes, it delivers stunning vibrancy and mineral intensity, really standing out. Bruno’s latest offering move him closer in style to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey which makes perfect sense and highlight the great strides these wines have taken, all of them come from small family lots in top sites, with 12 Premier Crus and a bit of Bourgogne and village wine as well making up his 19 bottlings or so from his old cellar in Chassagne, and on a side note, I noticed and admired his use of classy wax capsules on the Premier Crus this vintage, which also add some jazz to his highly impressive efforts. Bruno Colin, imported by Kermit Lynch, deserves acclaim for his lovely wines without family comparison, but that is hard to do, though in this case it highlights the quality on display. The 2013 Chassagne En Remilly bursts from the glass with vivid intensity and seductive charm, it is light greenish gold in hue, and starts with steely mineral, white flowers, saline, crisp citrus and river stones that lead to a gorgeous palate array of flavors including lemon curds, lime, apple and cool pear fruits along with brisk acidity, subtle, but sexy wood notes and great expansion in texture and mouth feel. A tropical essence, a hint of rose, melon and stone fruit come through along with light cedar, spice and hazelnut adding complexity, plus a faint glow of matchstick and honey. This wine lives off vital acidity, but it is refined and thoroughly compelling in every way, this is fantastic stuff that should drink gloriously for a decade or so, the En Remilly from over 50 year old vines is a sexy beast with a sublime balance of all it’s elements, it is pure joy in the glass with vigor and class, drink from 2015 to 2024.
($104 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive
