2015 Clemens Busch, Riesling Kabinett, Punderich, Mosel Germany.
This lightly sweet (fruity) Riesling Kabinett is a brilliant and lovely generous wine from Clemens and Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the middle Mosel, a newer generation producer that focuses on estate grown, biodynamic and natural wines from steep plots in the Marienburg lieu-dit. Right on the river and serve, this vineyard area is historic and classic Mosel with mixed slate soils and wonderful exposure allowing for stunning mineralite and rich density, texture and pleasure in feel and taste, most of Busch’s wines are dry, he uses native yeasts whenever possible, no additions, ferments are in huge old German 1,000L oak cask and he only utilizes a tiny dose of sulfur. This is a producer to watch along with Carl Loewen and Knebel in the Mosel, these wineries have raised their game in recent years and are making some fantastic Rieslings. The 2015 vintage Punderich Kabinett from Clemens Busch starts with mild honey, ginger and sea salt followed by a blast of flinty mineral, mango, green apple, white peach and lime sorbet. The mouth feel is medium lush, almost creamy, but with vital acidity and intensity, a hint of an exotic fruit, spice, white cherry and subtle white flowers come through in the background. This is an excellent terroir driven Riesling and a smooth enter into the house style, I also tasted the fabulous GG Falkenlay 2013, a Grand Cru dry Riesling that is full of power and presence in the glass, also a Feinherb “Vom Roten Schiefer” (Red Slate) 2013 which at about $35 is an outstanding dry feeling and expressive Riesling. These are detailed and focused wines that merit praise and attention, you should search them out if you are a Riesling fiend, like me, but also they are wonderful crowd pleasers as well, elegant and open, superb with summer fare and Asian cuisines, especially this pretty Kabinett!
($28 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
