2016 M. & C. Lapierre, Morgon, Cuvee S, Cru Beaujolais, France.
The M. & C. Lapierre 2016 Morgon Cru Beaujolais “S” is the lightly sulfured version, made from organic grapes and natural winemaking techniques, it just has a tiny dose of S02 at bottling to preserve it, as opposed to the Cuvee N that is exclusively imported by Kermit Lynch in ultra small qualities, while this one is more readily available and safer for shipping/cellaring, both are glorious expressions of Morgon, in fact after trying both there s little if any real world difference except that the N feels slightly more raw with a more earthy tone and a touch more citrusy note, while the S has a more forward clarity of fruit, though as noted the difference is almost not worth mentioning, it’s just as a long time admirer of Lapierre I was extremely curious as to how both were performing. Lapierre’s dad Marcel was a leader in organic and natural wines and Mathieu and his sister Camille have carried on his legendary example with exceptional care in the vines and in the cellar, these are wines that have always shown what well crafted natural wine can be, they are pure, elegant and clean wines with an authentic and soulful expression of terroir and heritage, while still not taking themselves too seriously, adding a playful art to each wine, these are wines you drink with a sense of awe and with much laughter and a huge smile on your face! This is absolutely Gamay perfection, made whole cluster from 60 years old vines and aged in well used Burgundy barrels, with no adornments, juicy, but wonderful in balance, beautifully perfumed and texture showing fine silky tannins and energy. The 2016 delivers a rich vein of bright cherry, fruity/juicy strawberry and wild black plum notes, a hint of cedar/walnut, sweet star anise, dried basil, mineral tones and violette. With air some savory tones, earth, spice and mineral add to the complex detail come through with delicious subtly, there’s no wonder why these are so sought after, I love it. This is a Gamay wonderland, not as concentrated as 2015, but joyously lively and almost crisply refreshing, drink now.
($28 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive

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