2022 Weingut Ingrid Groiss, Riesling, Braitenpuechtorff, Niederosterreich, Weinviertel DAC, Austria.
Ingrid Groiss, as noted here, has established herself as one of Austria’s newest stars, is based North of Vienna, in the Weinviertel region, which is a historic region that is really seeing a modern revival. As mentioned in prior reviews, Groiss makes wines that showcase (a) crystalline purity and this latest 2022 Riesling is crisply focused with a taut medium bodied palate, it is an impressive effort again and a perfect way to continue my celebration of Riesling, which has its 589 birthday on March 13. Groiss’ hometown of Breitenwaida is host to an impressive terroir with loess, sand and gravel soils and there’s plenty transmitted into her wines, as is the case (again) here with a fine loamy stony quality and mineral tones to go with the wine’s lightness and energy. The pale greenish gold Braitenpuechtorff Riesling gives lime led citrus, green apple, muskmelon, white peach, quince and kiwi fruits, along with distinctive almond, verbena and tea spices, in a precise and sharply detailed style. Ingrid has been in charge of her family’s vines and making her own wines since 2012, and quickly gained attention for the quality of her wines and helped put the Weinviertel DAC region back on the map, the oldest in Austria.
I love Austrian Riesling, with the likes of Hirsch, Knoll, Brundlmeyer, Alzinger, Veyder Malberg and Groiss being some of my favorites, they are ultra compelling wines and as authentic as it gets. That said, I also love Ingrid’s Gruner Veltliner and her signature wine, the Gemischter Satz, which is a field blend white made from Chardonnay, Frühroter Veltliner, Grauburgunder, Grauer Vöslauer, Grüner Veltliner, Hietl Rote, Müller Thurgau, Neuberger, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Roter Veltliner, Rotgipfler, Sämling, Silberweisse, Welchriesling, Wiesse Vöslauer, Zierfandler. The Gemischter Satz comes from a single parcel planted by Ingrid’s grandmother in Braitenpuechtorff, just north of Vienna not far from the Czech border. These 50 year old vines produce one of the world’s most unique traditional bone dry white wines, which I highly recommend. The single varietal offerings here, especially this bright and acid driven Riesling, are well worth chasing down. The Riesling grapes were gently pressed without the stems, but did see 12 hours of maceration on skins and was fermented with vineyard native yeasts exclusively in stainless steel. After fermentation it was then it was aged on its full lees for 7 months before bottling, all to promote freshness and clarity. Again, I highly recommend these Grioss wines, with this vintage being a standout year and If you get a chance, don’t miss the mentioned Groiss Gemischter Satz, the GruVee (Grüner), the Rosé and this Riesling.
($32 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive