2013 Weingut Von Winning, Sauvignon Blanc Trocken “I” Deidesheim, Pfalz Germany.
I must admit for a few vintages I was in total denial and didn’t give enough attention or time to the Von Winning Sauvignon Blancs, but recently I’ve been transformed by these amazing wines and now consider them among the world’s best examples of this varietal! The Sauvignon Blanc “500” is monumental, and this Sauvignon Blanc “I” is not far off, both being more in the Bordeaux Blanc class of style and both riveting and mind blowing wines, the “500” is more woody and richer, and this “I” being fresher and more delicate. Both wines are aged in oak cast on their lees and fermented dry with the grapes coming off the loam, loess and red sandstone soils of Paradiesgarten in the Von Winning Deidesheimer planted in high density with very low yields. It is hard to image a better set of Sauvignon Blancs, and the pure intensity and complexity is absolutely humbling, but this is a winery that never rests and is pushing the boundaries, dedicated to extreme quality, every single wines translates the desire and passion to create something magical and special at Von Winning, while the Rieslings here grab the headlines, Stefan Attmann’s Sauvignon Blancs are remarkable in their own right and should not be missed, especially the Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc Trocken “I” 2013, it is simply stellar. The energy and depth is fantastic with white flowers, sappy herbs, smoky notes and vibrant citrus lead the way, loads of lemon/lime, kiwi, quince and opulent peach fruits unfold on the palate along with steely mineral, wet stones, a hint of vanilla/creme brûlée and sweet and sour, lemongrass, grapefruit seed and tangy acidity. The texture is sublime, with well judged balance with a lush feel, but still lifting, tangy and electric, this is stunning stuff that rivals any Graves Blanc and or the best of California, for those that have had Peter Michael or the new Shared Notes wines, you’ll be thrilled by this Von Winning, and I can’t help imagine it will get even better with age! This is luxury in a bottle, it will also change your mind and perception of what German Sauvignon Blanc is and can be, drink this game changer between 2015 and 2028, this stuff is the real deal.
($42 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
