2015 Weingut Leitz, Riesling Spatlese, Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck, Rheingau Germany.
This outstanding and classic Riesling defies jaded classification and being boxed into a closed mind, while a true and traditional Spatlese it goes beyond perception to a beautiful place where you can just admire pure beauty with lush detail and bright mineral character this is a stunning wine. If we are being honest, RS or sugar levels mean little if a wine has vigorous acidity and quality form, as this sublime Riesling has, this wine is complex, wonderfully round and complete, plus over time this allows for great aging potential. This wine has always been one of my favorite wines in the world, and it may have been the wine that sparked my love for Johannes Leitz’s wines, and over the years, while I drink more of his other offerings, this wine has a place in my heart, and it reveals the soul of it’s own terroir with grace, pleasure and relish, this is a wine to cherish and celebrate place. Certainly there has been a strong current to drier wine styles, especially in German, and there is logic and reason to this, but it does leave behind a few special wines that deserve much more attention and merit, like this one, and while it seems much cooler to ask for or order the Trockens, don’t be a blind follower of fashion and trend in this case, this balanced and gorgeous Spatlese will win a place in your heart and earn a place in your cellar, especially this remarkable 2015 vintage of Johannes’ “Rosie” Roseneck with it’s exception focus, intense, but poised power and depth, this wine rocks! The nose is bright with flinty spice, light floral notes and tropical fruits leading to a lavish palate of layers fruit, an almost creamy sensation that is held nicely in check with vibrant acidity and a long lingering finish, showing lime blossom, peach, apricot, green apple, mango, pineapple and tangerine sorbet as well as a touch of tea spice, saline/stoniness and crystalline brilliance throughout. Johannes over the years has refined his winemaking style and now does everything to clear the juice and do long cool fermentations in mostly stainless, but with his best offerings doing time in old large “Stueck” in his cellar, this leads to much clear and refined flavors that dance on the palate. This stunning Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck comes from amazingly well tended sites in the vineyard on steep slate slopes that give this wine it’s core of vitality and depth of concentration and extract, it’s fine sweetness and seductive charm are wonderfully hedonistic and harmonious in this Riesling, plus the lower alcohol will help justify enjoying the second bottle! Drink this baby “Rosie” over the next decade at least, and be sure to check out of the Leitz 2015 Rieslings, both dry and fruity, they are sensational and some of best yet for this great Rheingau winery.
($40 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive