2014Foti2014 Salvo Foti-I Vigneri 1435, Vini Rosso IGT, Mount Etna, Sicily, Italy.
The wines made by Foti and the rites of I Vigneri are all natural and the grapes are farmed near Mount Etna in northeast Sicily and are produced in a holistic fashion, a term for the local version of biodynamics with great respect for nature and native history. The I Vigneri Rosso by Salvo Foti is made mostly of Nerello Mascalese, though some of the vineyards are old vine field blends with maybe a dozen different varietals which include some mystery vines that no one where or what is really is as of yet, hence the generic label instead of the Etna Rosso DOC. The 2014 has the usual funk, spice and wild fruits character you’d expect of Foti and still possesses a majestic presence in the glass with medium weight, lively vitality and a raw beauty that always intrigues and seduces with mulberry, strawberry, tart cherry and plum fruits along with flinty red pepper, hints of smoke, cayenne and cedar all come through on the palate as well as blueberry, anise, minty herb, beet root and warm stones. This earthy mix of sweet and savory layers feels radiant and is terroir driven, fermented with natural yeast in old oak vats without temperature control, this wine captures the age old passion of place and ancient traditions perfectly and it succeeds with it’s un-photoshopped or adorned sense of realism, worn proudly, faults and all. The Foti 2014 Rosso is appealing and truly almost erotic, gloriously unique, drink over the next 3 to 5 years, this is special stuff from high slopes of the volcano from the “Godfather” of Etna’s vines.
($30 Est.) 91+ Points, grapelive

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