2013 Weingut Theo Minges, Riesling, Gleisweiler, Trocken, Pfalz Germany.
The Weingut Minges of Theo Minges and his daughter Regina is really coming into it’s own, and starting to challenge the top flight wineries of the Pfalz region in the southern zone of Germany’s wine area, they are in the process of certification of (to) total biodynamic and already are completely organic and this clearly shows in the charm and energy the wines show. The unique soils here include red sandstone, loamy/clay, loess and chalky limestone, all very different from the flinty/shale weathered slate of the Mosel, Nahe, Rhein and Ahr areas, and this really adds to the almost unlimited palate of flavors the Pfalz has to offer, and the Minges wines are wonderfully distinct and complex. Theo thinks of himself as a winegrower and does very minimal cellar tinkering, he wants true terroir expressions, he ferments using native/natural fermentations and leaves the wine on it’s gross lees for an extended period of time, and uses almost no added sulphur, just a bit before bottling. The very dry 2013 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling is marvelously crisp and thrilling with an electric shock of zesty acidity and gripping extract, this is poised and crisp Riesling that feels as steely as a fine Chablis and tangy like a Sancerre with pure Riesling soul and flavors with tangerine, grapefruit, white peach and lots of lime and a touch of green apple along with mineral, earth, minty herbs, chalky stones, vibrant sea salt briny notes, oyster shell, rose petals, river stones, verbena and mango. This a terrific effort from the Minges’ and I think the results speak clear for themselves here, you should check out the wines here, especially this vivid example, the Gleisweiler Trocken 2013, it drinking beautifully well even now, but best from 2015 to 2022.
($28 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
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