2012 Foradori, Manzoni Bianco “Fontanasanta” Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino, Italy.
Another smash hit for Elisabetta Foradori, the new 2012 Fontanasanta is a stunning white that marries ancient style with modern hedonism with savory and mineral elements bursting from the glass along with pure vibrant fruit. Foradori’s amphora raised white that sees extended skin contact is one of the most successful and charming of this style wine available, it is unique for an almost “Orange” wine to be so clear, vivid and fresh in character and shows the deft touch and the obvious talent in the winemaking. Manzoni Bianco is a native Hybrid varietal, it is a cross between Pinot Blanc and Riesling, it was created in the 1930’s by Professor Luigi Manzoni, and of all the developed grapes he created the Manzoni Bianco looks to have been the most celebrated, it is a hardy varietal that resists rot and disease, with the benefit of early ripening which helps in this cool region. Foradori is the best wine made from this unique varietal that I’ve uncovered, and I think most experts tend to agree, this is fantastic wine and all natural, hand crafted with distinct character. The skin contact and aging in Spanish clay pots gives a golden yellow hue, bright intensity and grippy personality, this is serious wine from start to finish with orange blossoms, crushed gravelly stones, chalk, salted lemon, grapefruit, peach and tart apple and skin notes as well as all spice, seaweed and steely mineral. There is a touch of earthy loam, apricot and white flowers too, finishing with hints of tangerine and a dry tannin note, what is remarkable and intriguing is there is no oxidative funkiness or off aromas, this wine is refined and dynamic to the core, while still complex and wild, I’m most definitely hooked, drink from 2014 to 2020.
($38 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive