2010 Fattoria di Felsina Berardenga, Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva, Castelnuovo Berardenga DOCG, Tuscany Italy.
Felsina’s historic Rancia is an ancient plot that was once a Benedictine monastery site in the limestone/alberese and galestro marl soils of Chianti Classico’s southern most area near Colli Sensi very close to Siena in the Castelnuovo Berardenga region, which has chalky slopes reaching up to 420 metros and perfect south-east exposure. From this beautiful piece of land the Felsina estate produces some of the great wines of Tuscan, certainly some of the greatest Chianti, like this wonderful Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva, the original owner Dominic Poggiali Felsina the name sake of Felsina would be proud of the evolution of this winery, but most of the credit for making Felsina a world class wine must go to Giuseppe Mazzocolin, he is the man that has brought so much acclaim and energy to this fantastic property, and now his son Giovanni Poggiali is moving the estate to even greater heights. I have enjoyed Felsina since the mid nineties and have had to meet Caterina Mazzocolin, the daughter of Giuseppe and a winemaker in her own right at Felsina, and I was impressed with the complete passion and dedication she and her family has to wine and place, these wines reflect that soul and commitment. Felsina never fails to honor it’s terroir and never disappoints, especially Rancia. The 2010 Felsina Rancia is lush, earthy and textured with pure Sangiovese character and subtle charms, Rancia has a feeling about it that reminds you of maybe Margaux or a fine Bordeaux, but remains true to place and varietal, though very unique in it’s qualities and it has rich layers of flavor and terrific length. The 2010 stands out as an elegant example, it shows a nose of dried currants, wild herbs, tobacco leaf and moss covered stones, truffle and kirsch leading to a round and generous palate of dark cherries, plum, a mix of berries and balsamic dipped strawberries along with mineral notes, smoke, cedar, baking spices and licorice. The wood use is exceptional and deft, it really is framing the fruit, acidity and never becomes obvious. This is a graceful and lovely wine, a Tuscan treasure no question, both this glorious Rancia and Felsina’s Fontalloro are stunning in this vintage, I highly recommend chasing these wines down, they will go fast I’m sure. Drink the Rancia over the next decade, even though it is already fantastic it should gain with some time in bottle, best from 2015 to 2022.
($48-54 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
