2012 Clos Cibonne, Rose Tradition, Cuvee Speciale Tibouren, Cotes de Provence Cru Classe, France.
Claude and Olivier Deforge produce one of the most historic and unique Rose wines in the world from their estate in Toulon, a mere half mile from the gleaming blue Mediterranean in beautiful Provence. Clos Cibonne is one of the original 18 Crus and uses the almost extinct rare varietal Tibouren as the main grape in their cuvees, it is a pale and spicy flavored grape that yields only a tiny amount of clusters, and while they do make a red, it is their Rose that is the main focus and with good reason, these are absolutely gorgeous and hearty wines. The intriguing Tibouren gives these rose’s character and the winemaking based around their qualities is different from the normal modern style, these wines see an extra long time on their lees and time in cask, this is an ancient way that suits this varietal and adds an extra layer of interest in these wines. The new release is the 2012, which has a touch of Grenache in the blend, it is fresh, vigorous, textured and lengthy with sour cherry, hints of damson plum, watermelon, red peach and has a touch of saline, a bit of tangerine/citrus along with mineral, game, lavender, dried rose petal and strawberry notes. There is a rich feel in the mouth, but still plenty of lively acidity to brighten the whole, making for a complete wine that can match up with almost any cuisine. This is an example of a rose that can age and be enjoyed over a period of a few years, having had a few aged vintages I can attest to their ability to develop and gain in detail over time, even though I do prefer them in their youth.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive