2015 Francesco Brigatti, Vespolina “Maria” Colline Novaresi, Northern Piedmonte, Italy.
Vesplina is a rare native grape to the Northern Piedmonte and is usually found in field blends in the Ghemme, Bramaterra and Boca zones of the Colline Novaresi and usually a small part player in reds that feature Nebbiolo and Barbera. Vespolina is like Ruche without the heavenly floral intensity, it makes for an interesting solo grape wine that has a similar feel to Nebbiolo, but lighter and brighter, though in a vintage like 2013 and 2015 it can be a bit more ripe and dense, as this beautiful version by Francesco Brigatti, this is a stylish and natural wine that is absolutely pure and delicious. Grown on sandy soils over clay, Brigatti’s Vespolina shows fine detail and fruity richness, it’s certainly full in flavors without holes anywhere on the medium bodied palate that shows brandied cherries, plum, minty herbs, light stoniness and mineral as well as spicy raspberry, cinnamon stick, basil/anise and finishes crispy/peppery with lingering kirsch and potpourri. Brigatti, is a new star of the Alto Piedmonte (A region that is on fire right now with a stunning array of wines) and his wines, the ones I’ve tasted so far have been brilliant efforts, and this one is a steal, it’s a high quality red that thrills and stays focused and brisk, there’s no wood used at all here, this is as mentioned just a briskly pure Vespolina, stainless tank fermented and aged, 7 months, it picks up terroir/earthy notes with air, but keeps the tangy fruit pumping throughout, best with food and slightly rustic cuisine, drink over the next 2 to 3 years.
($18 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
