2024 Odonata, Viognier, Chiara Estate Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
I just got to try the new 2024 Estate Viognier from Dennis Hoey at Odonata and it was absolutely stunning, one of the finest California versions of this varietal that I’ve tried to date, with beautiful aromatics, purity of form, depth and length, fans of Condrieu will be impressed! Like Hoey’s 2021, another exceptional vintage for this wine, this 2024 has a crystalline medium bodied palate with a range of stone fruit and citrus fruits, there’s fleshy apricot, bright tangerine and lime notes that feel layered, rounded and lively, which is enhanced by the seductive honeysuckle aromatics, salty wet stones, bitter almond, clove spice and a hint of creaminess on the finish. Made from vines set on sandy loams right next to the winery itself, with loose stones with decomposed granite soils that see the coolest ocean effect in the SLH region with chilly breezes, this Viognier again retains natural acidity and the long growing season adds to the concentration and complexity. The Odonata whites typically see whole cluster pressing and native yeast fermentation(s) with aging done in mainly neutral French oak barrels with some lees maturing that allows for a pleasing mouth feel and textural quality, as seen here. Hoey’s Odonata Winery, as I’ve said before, has really made a name for itself over the last few years with a tasty array of eclectic and stylish small lot bottlings, these are well crafted and authentic wines that deserve your attention.
The current set of Odonata includes some exciting stuff, with the Syrah from Soberanes and Escolle vineyards being some of my personal favorites, along with the very stylish Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne method sparking wine, which also really impressed me with its grower producer super, almost Extra brit racy profile. As I have noted previously, I’ve been a fan of Dennis Hoey’s wines for quite awhile and they seem to be getting better and better, especially his Santa Cruz Mountains sourced Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, the mentioned Syrahs and Sangiovese bottlings, but his whites, like this Viognier and his sparkling wines are also brilliant and delicious efforts. Hoey, who has said that only high quality grapes make high quality wines and is focused on organic and sustainable farming. Odonata with three estate vineyards, including Falcon Hill, in the Santa Cruz Mountains where Hoey grows Pinot Noir, Machado Creek near Morgan Hill in the southern Santa Clara Valley, is planted to 10 acres of Petite Syrah, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Sangiovese grapes, and his home Estate Vineyard in Santa Lucia Highlands, surrounding his home and winery where the Viognier thrives. There’s a lot to enjoy here at Odonata, which came into being here in 2014 when they moved into the old Marilyn Remark Winery property in the Santa Lucia Highlands, right on River Road, which has become one of the best places to visit on the whole SLH wine trail. Also, it should be mentioned that Hoey now has small batch collection of Cognac style Brandy, which can be sampled and bought directly at the winery tasting room, but don’t miss this Viognier!
($38 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive