2023 Agricola LaLu, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Piemonte, Italy.
My very first taste of Lara and Luisa Sala’s LaLu wines came with this absolutely enticing and seductive Langhe Nebbiolo, which I was convinced to give a try, without knowing anything at all about the winery and wow, I am so grateful I went for it, as this is lovely pure and pedigreed stuff with fine aromatics, exciting freshness and excellent depth. Opened as part of a week long celebration of my mom’s 89th birthday with family, but day old pizza, I was awed by the LaLu audits pretty mix of florals and savory elements, it shows a deep ruby/garnet color in the glass and has energized medium full palate of youthful, bright and zesty red currant, damson plum, cherry, guava and blood orange fruits, along with a subtle earthiness, minty herbs, a hint of sandalwood, black licorice and a light peppery note. Transparent and polished, you’d not expect too more from a Langhe Nebbiolo, in fact even so young it is joyous expression of grape and terroir, I can’t wait to explore the rest of the LaLu collection. I’m told, if you like this one, which I love, you’ll go crazy for the LaLu Barolo Le Coste Monforte, which is their signature bottling and a collectors dream of an effort that marries the power of Barolo with the stylish elegance of a Grand Cru Burgundy, all of which intrigues me even more…
My friend Alex Lallos, an expert on most things Barolo, turned me on to Agricola LaLu, which, as mentioned, was completely new to me and I was extra pleased with this discovery and especially this gorgeous Langhe Nebbiolo, which is pure, complex and compelling from start to finish. He told me for the Langhe Nebbiolo, by the Côte d’Or trained winemaker, it is fermented with native yeast and about 30% whole cluster, a rarity in Nebbiolo wines, in concrete, with a submerged cap maceration period to preserve aromatics and vivid detail, It’s then aged in large Austrian oak casks and bottled without fining or filtration. Lallos goes on to say that LaLu is one of the most important new producers in Barolo in recent years – with experience locally and at renowned addresses in Burgundy, Lara and Luisa Sala of Lalu are contributing to an evolving conversation around viticulture, winemaking, and the identity of Barolo. This Langhe Nebbiolo comes mostly from a younger vine plot in the excellent Roncaglie La Morra cru on southwest facing slopes up at just under 300 meters and with classic Calcareous, clay-rich soils. Farming he explains is organic/natural with a focus on vineyard biodiversity. Cellar work is minimalist and blends local tradition with the extremely delicate handling of fruit, more common in Burgundy. I like what I tried and will be happy knowing I grabbed a few bottles of this little gem.
($40 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive