2023 Domaine Lydie et Thierry Chancelle, Saumur-Champigny, Vieilles Vignes, Loire Valley, France.
The Domaine Chancelle, with wines coming from the Loire’s Saumur-Champigny region, made by Lydie et Thierry Chancelle, was all new to me and I was excited to try this old vine Cab Franc that shows off a pretty nose of violets, dark berries and delicate spices that leads to a pure, lightly earthy, medium bodied palate of blackberry, cherry, plum and currant fruits, along with hints of chalky stones, cedar, minty herbs, bell pepper and anise notes. Nice acidity, mild tannins and good length are welcome here, though it might lack the typical power found in Saumur-Champigny, but that said there’s a lot to enjoy here with all the hallmarks of varietal and place. This vintage, less concentrated than 2020 or 2022, has a rewarding presence in the glass with a deep garnet/purple hue and elegant complexity, and I bet it will age well too. This wine, all de-stemmed and vat macerated for 21 days, seeing 12 months in used barrel, delivering transparency, which old school Cab Franc fans will enjoy, is best when paired with meaty dishes or roast poultry, with duck breast being a more decedent option.
The Domaine Chancelle, based in the tiny village of Turquant is a small estate overlooking the Loire River, and is located just minutes east of Saumur and close to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud. The domaine, which naturally farms about 35 acres, is set on pure chalk, with classic clayey-limestone slopes and vines which consist of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Chenin Blanc Chancelle’s importer to the States Massanois says that Thierry Chancelle is a native of Chinon and Lydie, his wife, is a daughter and granddaughter of viticulturists in here in Saumur, so they come with native roots and respect for the land. Interestedly the Chancelle’s, who are maybe best known for their terroir driven Cab Franc wines, have a deep and intense passion for Chenin Blanc, and they have campaigned for the recognition of a white (AOC) Saumur-Champigny appellation. I really liked this Chancelle and I look forward to trying the full collection of offerings and recommend this one for its subtle character and pureness, it will be great with simple or rustic cuisine. Those that have had the Olga Raffaut Chinon, will like this one, and I would drink a few now and put a few away to drink in the next 3 to 5 years.
($24 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive