2016 Fonterenza, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany Italy.
The beautifully evolving 2016 Fonterenza Brunello di Montalcino, imported to the States by Farm Wine Imports, Louis/Dressner Selections, is a lovely, lightly floral perfumed and elegantly raw Tuscany gem with a palate full of classic Sangiovese character and an extra degree of pleasure, highlighting place and vintage perfectly. Very similar to what I’ve enjoyed from this tiny estate previously there’s a full bodied palate with wild black plum, red berries, currant jam, minty herb, anise, cigar wrapper, bitter coco, loamy stones, mulberry leading the way, along with hints of iron, cedar and balsamic dipped sweet strawberries. Again, like the 2010, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is basically a Riserva, since it was only released after 5 full years of aging, made from of course100% Sangiovese Grosso, and crafted in an old school minimalist fashion with no flashy new oak or turbo charging, this is low intervention, traditional wine with true terroir character at it’s finest. Francesca and Margarita Padovani have again done a fabulous under the radar effort here that really impresses from start to lingering finish and a wine that should have plenty of tannin and structure to go another decade plus in the cellar.
Sourced from the Vigna del Bosco, a tiny parcel that sits up some 450 meters above sea level, on hardened clay, sand and limestone soils, this Brunello typically ages between 40 and 60 months in large botti before bottliing, with great taken to preserve the true essence of place and year.The sisters Margarita and Francesca Padovani hand craft the Campi di Fonterenza wines, and while they are a very young winery, having only started production of Brunello in 2004, after having taking over the family estate in 1997, they have a great reputation for quality and style. They were mentored at Soldera, so that gives an idea to the passion and style they have started with here. Margarita planted the first plots in 1999 and they are totally biodynamic, something rather unique in Montalcino, even now, but becoming more and more common as the quality becomes more apparent in the wines. These are seriously glorious Brunellos at Fonterenza, with just enough rustic authenticity to keep them grounded, traditional and exciting, this 2016 is an impressive and alluring wine, like the 2010, that you’d want for a special occasion, it is a must have for those looking for a more natural style version of Brunello, and don’t miss their poised and deep Rosso di Montalcino either, it over delivers in it’s price class and is more than a baby Brunello, enthusiasts will be well advised to look for them both.
($99 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive