2018 Michael Cruse, Ultramarine, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Sparkling Wine, Sonoma Coast.
The Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs is an exotic treat in Californian wine, hand crafted and rich in character, not many sparkling wines here have the depth and seductiveness you find in the glass and this version has toasty leesy charm, an array of orchard, tropical and citrus fruits, mineral/stony notes and lovely aromatics. There’s apple, pineapple/lemon creme, wild peach and fig notes, along with almond brioche, wet stone, lime flower and clove spice all lifted by an elegant small beading luxurious mousse. One of the most sought-after sparkling wine projects, and helping to redefine the potential of American bubbles, Ultramarine was established just over ten years ago by Michael Cruse, a former molecular biologist turned winemaker. Ultramarine, Cruse says, focuses on crafting single-vineyard, single-vintage sparkling wines with the flagship wines coming almost exclusively from the acclaimed Charles Heintz Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. The Blanc de Blancs, made from 100% Chardonnay is my favorite, though the all Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs is none too shabby either, there is a waiting list to get these beauties, so I suggest getting on the mailing list as soon as possible. The Ultramarine bottlings are wildly expressive and flamboyant, inspired by Champagne’s more rare grower producers, like Selosse and Cedric Bouchard, with terroir in mind, but proudly Californian.
The grapes for Michael Cruse’s bubblies, as seen here in the Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs, are pressed using a traditional Champagne cycle and racked off to settle, then the juice goes through a native yeast primary and malolactic fermentation in barrel, which shows in the vinous quality here. Michael Cruse has really made a name for himself with these exceptional small production Champagne style wines that are highly coveted offerings, and mostly known for this cult Ultramarine sparkler, as well as his stylish, but fun natured Pet-Nats, especially the Valdiguié, and now a Zinfandel Pet-Nat. But along with the bubbles, Cruse does some quality still wines, under the Cruse Wine Company, based in Petaluma, all of which are worth chasing down too, these include an interesting Tannat Rouge, a Valdiguié and a unique mixed red blend called Monkey Jacket, made from Valdiguié, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Carignan, with a touch of Tannat and Pinot Noir. The Cruse Wine Co. offerings are incredibly reasonably priced and delicious and much easier to find than the Ultramarine, with Skurnik out hustling them on the market place nationwide, and there are the alternative Champagne Methode bubblies there as well, which I have enjoyed myself many times, especially the Cruse Tradition, which is like a declassified version of the Ultramarine. A huge thank you to friends, like Jannae and Lee, who have recently shared their personal bottles of Ultramarine with me, so I can write about it!
($175 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive