2024 Domaine Zafeirakis, Assyrtiko, Tyrnavos, Greece.
The brightly crisply and Summery Domaine Zafeirakis Assyrtiko, comes, rather than Santerini, from Tyrnavos, which is ocated in the foothills of Mount Olympus, the seat of the mythical Greek gods, as the winery notes, and has for centuries been one of the main wine producing regions of Greece. I loved the freshness and subtle fruit found here on this 2024 Zafeirakis Assyrtiko with its more restained, but nicely complex style, it was fabulous at lunch with an array of steamed clams, grilled octopus and lemon ricotta ravioli recently on a warm and sunny day, in Napa Valley. This ultra pale straw/gold and steely white from Central Greece starts with delicate white blossoms, crushed stones and a mix of citrus and orchard fruits, leaning on a core of tart lemon/lime, white peach, quince and earthy muskmelon, along with hints of bitter almond, saline sea shore, oyster shell and a dusting of wild herbs. This bone dry offering is all from organic vines and are are planted on a mix of sandy-clay, high flint and low calcium concentration soils, plus a site that was an ancient lake that is rich in calcium and deep clay, which provides a natural balancing act in the Zafeirakis wines. Assyrtiko is a grape on the rise and is enjoying its moment in the spotlight in its homeland, especially on the island of Santerini, but it is also gaining traction in Australia where Jim Barry makes an exciting verson and here in California, where Tegan Passalaqua of Turley, does one under his Sandlands label.
The Domaine Zafeirakis, where the Zafeirakis family has been practicing viticulture for more than 100 years, is based in the town of Tyrnavos, in the PGI Tyrnavos area, located in the region of Thessaly in Central Greece. Christos Zafeirakis, the 4th generation winemaker of Zafeirakis, who had finished his studies in Italy, returned to Tyrnavos and planted his first organic vineyard in 2005 and almost imediately began to be a winemkr to watch in Greece, with his innovative approach and his unique varietal selections, from ancient grapes like Assyrtiko, Limniona, a very rare to us red grape, and Malagousia, as well as international selections, like Chardonnay and Syrah. Christos Zafeirakis says he has built a winery both in honor and continuation of the four generations of winemakers in his family that preceded him and with an eye to the future and with modern technologies. Having an impressive resume including completing his oenology masters degree at the University of Milan and consecutive years of work in Tuscany, Piedmont, and Alto Adige, Christos has brought home a well honed style and ideas to raise the game here at his estate, which shows in his wines, like this one. As noted on the label, Christos ferments with only indigenous yeasts and for this Assyrtiko, he employed a stainless steel fermentation and aging regime to capture purity of form and place, as well as its natural vibrancy. Having almost singe handedly rescued the rare Limniona grape, Domaine Zafeirakis, is getting lots of praise in Greece, but it is wines like this Assyrtiko, especially at this price, that are bringing international interest to this part of the country.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive