2020 Poderi Aldo Conterno, Barolo DOCG “Romirasco” Bussia Cru, Piemonte, Italy.
I was lucky enough to try the 2020 Aldo Conterno Romirasco Barolo, from two separate decanted bottles, which was showing fabulously well with gorgeous complex layering of pure Nebbiolo nobility that include black cherry, damson plum, crushed strawberry, orange marmalade and dried apricot fruits, along with delicate florals, cedary wood, hints of porcini, bergamot, minty anise, Asian spices and meaty notes. There is open sense, and opulence to the profile, but there is also a structural firmness that reminds you of the serious nature of Aldo Conterno Barolo and the length is certainly of Grand Cru class of this garnet and dark brick hued wine. The Bussia’s vineyard “Romirasco” parcel, used by Conterno, is about 50-55 years old, set on the old limestone marl and the vines have been replanted from time to time with the main clone of Nebbiolo being the Lampia and its rootstock is Rupestris du Lot, which adds to the unique distinction here. The full bodied and rich character is almost certainly down to the terroir and exposure here, and the wine is crafted with tried and true traditional methods. The Romirasco saw a full hand harvest and careful selection in the vines, with the grapes brought into the winery cool and then 100% de-stemmed and macerated/fermented in stainless steel vat with many rackings before going into barrels to mature. The single Cru Barolo wines spend more than 30 months in oak casks and then up to 6 years in bottle, for the Gran Bussia, the rare reserve bottling.
The Poderi Aldo Conterno winery’s legendary status comes from, Aldo Conterno, who was an Italian winemaker of his eponymous wines in the Piemonte region, in the district of Langhe, most notably producing powerful and age worthy Barolo wines. The winery is located in Monforte d’Alba, in the famous Bussia Barolo vineyard and Conterno is widely acclaimed and is one of the greatest among Piemonte’s foremost producers, which extends into modern times. It is well known, that Aldo Conterno was the youngest son of Giacomo Conterno from Monforte, who at the end of the 1960s wanted to set up his own business, so he managed to buy the Il Favot country house and founded Poderi Aldo Conterno. Raising the bar for Barolo over the next few decades, and today, his sons Franco, Stefano (winemaker) and Giacomo run the family business, continuing to put out some of Italy’s finest wines, like this Romirasco Barolo. It should be noted that Aldo Conterno embraces ripeness and fullness of flavors, with many of their Barolo offerings, like this one come in at 15% natural alcohol, though that said, they are wonderfully elegant and profound wines. The Romirasco is one of the more elite efforts here, though sometimes over shadowed by the Gran Bussia Barolo, which is probably the signature wine of the winery and almost impossible to find, except by the most serious of collectors. It is not often, I get a chance to enjoying this wines, so it was a real treat. The Il Favot Langhe Nebbiolo “Baby Barolo” is the Aldo Conterno offering that suggest searching out, it is always an outstanding wine that is somewhat affordable!
($300 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive