2006 Weingut Schloss Schönborn, Riesling Auslese ***, Pfaffenberg, Rheingau Germany.
This winery excels in mature sweet wines, and the very amber 2006 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Auslese just might be at its peak point for the best results, it shows off candied apricot, apple butter and dried ginger notes adding honeyed orange peel, dried roses and quince with air as well as touches of flint, wet stones and a whiff of petrol, all very traditional stuff here. As with the other sweet wines I’ve tried from Schloss Schönborn from this vintage, it makes for an exciting and pleasing experience with the sugars giving a creamy texture rather than heavy sweetness, but it is somewhat ahead of the others in evolution, so I’d drink this one up sooner versus later, especially with a lightly sweet dessert, like flan or creme brûlée. This gold capsule Schloss Schönborn Auslese is ultra traditional with careful cluster selections and fuder (old large cask) aging in their cold ancient cellars, as expected and desired, it is wines like this that make you appreciate these old school styles. Not always easy to find, Schloss Schönborn, in America, they are well deserved treats when you find them, in particular when they have 10 to 15 years of age on them! I had the none gold capsule Schlossberg a few years ago, and it was in a fresher place, but a 20 years old now, this Pfaffenberg (three star) is perfectly in keeping with the house style.
One of the old school and historic producers in the Rheingau, Schloss Schönborn, as I’ve mentioned before, is based in Eltville/Hattenheim area, has been around since 1349 and still run by the noble for which it is named, with Paul Graf von Schönborn leading this classic estate that tends to get overlooked a bit these days, but once fully aged their Rieslings really shine and are outstanding values, like this golden and mature Pfaffenberg Auslese. Schloss Schönborn now encompasses 50 hectares of vineyards, throughout the Rheingau, of which 91% is planted with Riesling, plus 9% Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) with parcels in some of best vineyards, including blocks of vines at Erbach, Hattenheim (Priest Mountain), Hochheim, Johannisberg, Rauenthal and the Rüdesheimer Berg, as in this one. Even though Schloss Schönborn has joined the VDP and do GG’s, they are very much committed to their sweeter style wines and are more well known for the Spatlese and Auslese that really age well with their residual sugars, and it should be noted though densely packed with those sugars these wines are less cloying when aged and get lovely balanced and complex, adding secondary flavors, earthy tones and holding on to their natural acidity. Thanks to my friend Alex Lallos, who turned us on to this Auslese after a very generous meal.
($45-55 Est. 375ml) 92 Points, grapelive