FranckPascalRoseN.V. Franck Pascal, Tolerance, Brut Rose Champagne, Valle de la Marne, France.
The Champagne Franck Pascal bubbly is a unique terroir expression wine from heavier clay soils of his estate vineyards, with more Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the blend then Chardonnay and this Rose being the most distinct of his wines for both the color and flavors on offer. The Rose is listed as a Brut on the label, but I was understood to believe it is in fact closer to Extra Brut, it is dry and dusty with a wild nature, earthy character, almost robust in it’s rustic charm at first, though it opens beautifully and has gorgeous detail and length. Made without wood, fermented in tank, it does go through malo and shows nice density, power and tension, this is very intriguing and sexy stuff, very very different from the decadence and polish of let’s say Vilmart or Krug, but no less compelling and interesting. I also tried the Franck Pascal Brut Nature and loved that too, this is a Champagne house to watch and I highly recommend trying these amazing sparkling wines. The Rose starts with truffle oil, dried roses, bitter almond and light brioche on the nose with a bright vibrant pink hue leading to an earthy palate that shows peach, lemony citrus, sour cherry and strawberry essence along with mineral, loam and a delicate leesy note, this is vigorous and has an almost tannic grip, this no question this is a dinner Champagne, best with food and thought, in other words this is a stay at home wine, not a frivolous party favor, though no less a celebration. The refined and persistent mouse reminds you it’s a Champagne, but the layers of complexity ask you questions from start to finish, this is a next level sparkler that takes time to fully understand, mysterious and alluring, I love it, drink from 2015 to 2018.
($74 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive

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