2013HexamerGris2013 Weingut Hexamer, Grauburgunder Trocken, Nahe Germany.
The Hexamer Pinot Gris is a pretty and complex mineral driven white that is both serious and fun with an open leesy charm plus vibrant acidity and smoky spices. The mixed soils of Hexamer’s vines give interesting layers of flavor and vitality to this grape, this is one of the best examples of this varietal in Germany I’ve tasted, the Nahe is one of the great terroirs in the world and this 2013 Hexamer Grauburgunder is a stunner, easily on par with anything coming from Alsace or Alto Adige. Hexameter’s wines always seem to enjoy extra time to unfold, and he let this one spend a bit more time in tank on the lees before bottling, it worked out perfectly allowing an added richness of character to come through, but still being energy filled and cooly crisp, it is very lovely and sharply focused. The 2013 Grauburgunder starts with a hint of smoky/leesy brioche and citrus blossoms leading to a round palate of apple, lemon/lime and melon fruit with fine crushed stones and light mineral notes plus a fresh/dry saline element along with a mix of white tea, ginger and unsweetened honey. This is impressive stuff from Hexamer and it should get even better in bottle over the next 3 to 5 years, though there is no need to wait on this one, unlike his Rieslings that need 5 to 10 years to really show their potential, these latest set of offerings are sleepers and amazing values, especially this Pinot Gris, but be sure to score Hexamer’s 2014 and 2015 Rieslings and in particular the 2014 Feinherb Porphyr and 2014 Quarzit Meddersheimer-Rheingrafenberg, at about $20 per bottle they are excellent bargains to put into your cellar!
($20 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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