2023 Pax, Gamay Noir, Alta Monte, Sonoma County.
The juicy, fun and whole cluster crunchy Alta Monte Gamay from Pax drinks clean and refined, much like a whole cluster Pinot Noir with black cherry, strawberry, pomegranate and plum fruits on the medium bodied and lively/spicy palate, along with a nice long cinnamony finish. This dark ruby wine is leaning into its cool climate fruit character, but there is Umami and mineral tones well integrated in the background and I look forward to seeing how this one ages, though it is really delicious right now. This year’s poised and transparent Alta Monte saw 100% whole cluster fermentation in stainless steel on ambient yeasts and then aged in neutral French oak 500L puncheons for 10 months, which has added depth and shine to this wine. The Alta Monte, according to Pax, is a blend of two Vineyards, Black-Knight Vineyard sitting on top of the intersection of the Bennett Valley and Sonoma Coast AVAs and the Rancho Coda Vineyard, a very steep, high elevation, alpine inspired vineyard high above the Russian River Valley.
Pax Wine Cellars, the winery notes, was launched in 2000 to focus on the untapped potential, at the time, of cool climate Syrah from coastal sites, as well as a selection of esoteric varieties, like the Gamay and Trousseau, that showcase the great diversity of California wine. As mentioned here, Pax, most known for their outstanding Syrahs, was the first winery to produce and release a Gamay Noir from the cool climate Sonoma Coast region, not too long ago, starting with a tiny batch he did in 2015, a wine I didn’t get to try. I did however did try and love both with 2016 and 2017 versions, plus the 2018, and now the 2023s, which I think are the most enjoyable and well rounded of the vintages so far. Gamay and Chenin Blanc are having a moment in the spotlight in California, both of which Pax does extremely well and while the Syrah gets most of headlines, and deservedly so, especially the Sonoma Hillsides version, these Gamay and Chenin Blanc wines by Pax have a enthusiastic geek following and hard to find, so I suggest joining the mailing list and wine club here.
($45 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive