2024 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Timorasso – Derthona DOC, Colli Tortonesi, Piemonte, Italy.
Again, one of the star whites from Piemonte is Borgogno’s Timorasso, this 2024 vintage is really shinning right now, coming from all organic vines in the Derthona DOC, it is lightly floral, medium bodied with a lovely texture and fine minerallity, it delivers a polished, Burgundy like, and lively fresh performance, once again highlighting the grape’s best qualities. Similar qualities to previous vintages with layers of peach, citrus and quince fruits, leesy notes, white flowers and an array of herb and spices along with a nice saline and wet stone element. Derthona is the ancient name for Tortona, the town in southeast Piemonte, hence the appellation Colli Tortonesi (Tortona Hills) name. The Timorasso is widely believed to be one of the longest-aging white varieties in Italy, with many of the producers saying it takes a few years to get itself together in the bottle, adding a depth of flavor and making more of a palate impact with honeyed notes and it deserves serious attention, going well with a variety of foods including poultry, pork and fatty fish and decedent shellfish, even lobster and or crab dishes. In recent times Borgogno has also brought back the use of concrete for fermentations to give an extra element of classic and soulful expression to the wines throughout the range. It was great to go through the Borgogno lineup at the recent Slow Wine tasting in San Francisco, and while the Nebbiolo and Barolo bottling are the headliners, this Derthona is also a must try wine.
The Borgogno Dertona DOC comes from the Monleale, mostly hillsides around Tortona set on classic clay and limestone soils with good ripening coming from the great southeast and southwest exposures, making for a more full bodied version, in some ways like the dry rich Alsatian Rieslings, but with a bit more softness and opulence, like Burgundy, especially when allowed to age. As seen in past versions, the Borgogno Derthona was aged, mostly in tank, for 18 months and is very refined and has remarkable clarity with a delicate light pale color and subtle acidity, which is very rounded in the mouth. Borgogno, also known as “Giacomo Borgogno & Figli” which was founded back in 1761 by Bartolomeo Borgogno, was one of the very first elite Barolo producers and has an amazing track record for great wines, with their Nebbiolo bottlings being some of the most desirable wines in Italy. The Farinetti family acquired this historic winery in 2008, but is firmly committed to quality and the estate’s traditions, with Andrea Farinetti, according to the winery, who graduated from the oenological school in Alba, took over in 2010 giving a youthful excitement to this legendary property. The 2015 marked the first vintage of their classified Derthona (Timorasso) white after a purchase of the vineyard sites and the conversion to all organic practices. The rare native Timorasso grape is truly back from almost extinction and now is one of the hottest white wines made in the Piedmonte region these days, with this wine being one of the best out there.
($55 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive