2023 Drew Family Cellars, Pinot Noir, The Fog Eater, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County.
One of California’s most distinctive and delicious Pinot Noir wines, the Drew “The Fog Eater” Anderson Valley Pinot reminds me of classic Côte de Nuits Burgundy, somewhere between a Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny, with a dark and earthy fruit profile and heightened violet/floral aromatics, which have again showed up here in this gorgeous 2023 vintage, making for a Pinot lovers dream. I’ve been drinking and highlighting Jason Drew’s wines since around 2005, but his move to the Anderson Valley a few years later was a huge turning point and his 2013s were monumental achievements and since then his Pinots have, in my opinion, been maybe the finest available in California and this 2023 The Fog Eater is the latest proof of the excellence found in these wines. The medium full palate is still very youthful and juicy fresh, but the potential is clearly on display with a fabulous array of black cherry, raspberry, wild plum, tart currant, pomegranate and blueberry fruits, along with briar laced spices, woodsy earth, minty herb, candied orange peel, a touch of vanilla, cinnamon and very subtle oak notes. There’s plenty of vivid acidity, silken or velvety tannin and mineral tones, making for an elegantly presented, low alcohol and seductive Pinot Noir that delivers everything you could ask for, drink this one over the next 5 to 10 years. This bottling is always a bit under the radar, as it isn’t a single vineyard offering, but as I’ve mentioned in my previous reviews, this is an exceptional value and wonderfully age worthy compelling and complex Pinot.
The Drew ”The Fog Eater”, as noted before, is an appellation blend Pinot Noir, from several sites from both bench and hillside locales along with outer western rim vineyards in the Anderson Valley which winemaker Jason Drew uses to create, as he puts it, a classic expression of (the) Anderson Valley. The term Fog-eater, as Drew notes, is a Boontling term, from the local dialect in the area, that is used to describe those who live out on the coastal margins, as the Drew family does and the outliers in the fog. Very fitting for this Pacific Ocean influenced area near the Mendocino coast, which delivers its signature on these wines, giving balance, low alcohol and long hang-time concentration. As with most all of the Drew wines, Jason used 100% native yeasts during the fermentation on this lovely and authentic Pinot Noir and he employs between 20% to 50% whole clusters (in the Pinots) that he says brings additional structure and spice into The Fog Eater. The charm and form of this great wines is also due to the complex Franciscan Series soils, with vines on the alluvial, gravel, loam and ancient seafloor uplift elements, as well as the special clonal selections of Pinot Noir used here, that in this vintage includes the Dijon Clones, 115, 667, 828 as well as heritage Mt. Eden and Rochioli clones. As per normal, The Fog Eater, as typically the case, saw just 10% new French oak and was aged just about a year in the barrel with just two gentle rackings, highlighting, as I’ve mentioned many times now, Drew’s graceful touch and desire to present wines of elegance, substance and transparency. I highly recommend Drew’s wines, any year, though I suggest not missing these ultra cool and exciting 2023s and this The Fog Eater is a great way to discover Jason Drew’s wines.
($55 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive