2023 Domaine Arnaud Lambert, Saumur Blanc, Midi Craie Sablo-Argileuse, Brézé, Loire Valley, France.
The Domaine Arnaud Lambert based in Saint Cyr en Bourg – Brézé is fast becoming a favorite Loire producer for me and this pale straw/gold hued 2023 Midi is just another confirmation, it is again a beautiful, bright and energy filled chalky Chenin Blanc that shows mineral driven intensity and a medium bodied palate with classic white peach, citrus and green apple fruits, wet stones, delicate herb and spice with just a hint of honeycomb and melon. This terroir wine, coming from mostly 4 hectares of vines planted in 1970, shows off its dry nature and chalky salty element that makes it excellent with food, especially lighter poultry dishes and soft cheeses. As mentioned, after tasting the 2020 version, this is an exceptional value for what you get in the glass, compared to some of the other names that do Brézé whites, like Clos Rougeard. The talents of Lambert don’t stop at fine Chenin Blanc, the Cabernet Franc here is exceptional too, plus he also does sparkling Crémant de Loire Blanc, which has 75% Chenin and 25% Chardonnay in the blend to add richness and depth and a Cabernet Rosé bubbly that also uses fruit from the Clos de Midi. The wines here in Saumur are drier in feel than Vouvray or Montluis and can be quite austere, but Lambert’s find a way to be brisk and bone dry, but still very pleasing on the palate.
The Domaine Arnaud Lambert is a namesake winery that originally began as part of a father and son team with his dad Yves, made a name for himself when he took over at the historic estate of the Château de Brézé, one of France’s great properties and one that the French royals, as noted by the winery, used to exchange wines of Brézé annually for Château d’Yquem Sauternes. I have had a few outstanding wines from Château de Brézé over the years, so it was exciting to see Lambert’s personal offerings and get insight to his direction as a vigneron. I understand that Lambert is pushing the appellations of Saumur and Saumur-Champigny to invest in quality and focus on individual terroirs and lieu-dit sites, as he does, like in this wine. The goal is to re-discover the regions premier vineyards and exploit its full potential through organic viticulture and less-is-more, precise winemaking, which he himself adheres to. Brézé is a unique site due to its relatively high elevation and Tuffeau, the chalky limestone soils, here that gives these wines their distinct character. If you are in the need of fine Chenin Blanc, this is a top place to start exploring, Arnaud ferments with natural yeasts at very cold temperatures with this Midi bottling seeing 90% stainless steel and 10% old French oak barrels, usually with no malos completed and 6 to 8 months on the fine lees, adding some nice texture, as seen here. Lambert’s wines have gained a solid following in the States, but still remain good values and while not easy to find, they can still be chased down, which I recommend.
($32 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive