2022 Clos Canarelli, Corse Figari Rouge, Corsica, France.
The Clos Canarelli Figari Rouge is a beautiful and pure terroir driven efforts, by one of my favorite Corsican producers, and a wine again that shines with graceful tannins and rewarding depth, delivering a core of dark fruit, delicate florals, subtle earthiness, minty herbs and savory tones. This (normal) bottling comes from all biodynamic vines planted in 1997 and set on pure granite soils which provides a mineral essence here and allows for spice and fruit intensity, that comes through perfectly in this vintage. This 2022 is consistent with prior vintages and the palate is full, but elegant, with crushed red berries, plum, cherry and huckleberry fruit with a velvety mouthfeel, along with accents of sage, tobacco leaf, cedar, graphite, grilled fennel, bitter coca and lilac florals. This sophisticated Corse Figari Rouge, as noted before in my previous reviews, is passionately crafted by the talented Yves Canarelli from a unique blend of 80% Niellucciu, 15% Syrah and 5% Sciaccarellu, with Niellucciu being an ancient Etruscan clone of Sangiovese and Sciaccarellu being also an Etruscan grape brought to the Island ages ago and is the same varietal as Mammolo, a lesser known Chianti red grape. The Tuscan grapes are now indigenous here on Corsica and form the base for some the island’s most prized wines and make for truly distinctive efforts that don’t resemble their mainland cousins. Canarelli also an intriguing set of Amphora fermented and aged offerings, these should be on your wish list too, and all of these wines are better with matching cuisine.
The Clos Canarelli estate, originally founded in 1968, is an all organic and certified biodynamic estate in the remote village of Tarabucetta, on the outskirts of Figari on the southern tip of Corsica, is one of the Island’s most iconic wineries, crafting white, pink and red wines. According to Canarelli’s importer, the famous Kermit Lynch of Berkeley, California, who was one of the first to recognize the greatness on Corsica, Yves’s choice to convert the domaine to biodynamic viticulture has has given his wines an unusual freshness, complexity, and aromatic intensity that others in Figari have been unable to achieve. Kermit adds, In the cellar, Yves only uses indigenous yeasts, and prefers slow, deliberate, precise fermentation(s), and leaves his reds unfiltered. With this Corse Figari Rouge being 100% de-stemmed and fermented using large foudres with gentle hand punchdowns daily then aged up to 18 months. This wine is a great alternative to Tuscan reds, Bordeaux and or Rioja, it certainly out performs many such wines in its price class if not much higher! In modern times, this Mediterranean island has gained attention for the fabulous Rosé and Vermentino or Vermentinu, as it is known locally. Corsica is riding high these days, once thought of as a rustic and remote wine producing region, the wines now are cherished for their excellence and uniqueness, with wineries like Abbatucci, Leccia and Clos Canarelli being highly coveted. This wine, a steal on my local wine list, at Café Rustica in Carmel Valley, really hit the spot after long day at work with friends, going fabulously well with a range of dishes from duck to pasta.
($51 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive