2022 Weingut A. J. Adam, Riesling Kabinett, Dhron Hofberg, Mosel, Germany.
I’ve been a fan of this wine, since I first tried it back with A. J. Adam’s 2011 version and this 2022 vintage is remarkably consistent with that experience and shows off a fresh bright off-dry palate and stately mineral complexity. The Dhroner Hofberg Kabinett Riesling is all about terroir with tangerine citrus, rose petal aromas, exotic tropical notes, like mango, flinty wet stones and core of apricot and peach that emerge here. There’s juicy acidity and energy that add to the fine structure and nice tension here, with a lighter framed medium body, making it wonderful with a wide range of cuisine choices, though cured meats, Asian spicy dishes and raw fish are solid pairings. I highly recommend the A. J. Adam offerings, especially this one, which was fantastic with a selection of briny oysters and crab legs.
The Weingut A. J. Adam, as mentioned before, is led by Andreas Adam (who formally worked at Heymann-Löwenstein, after studying at Geisenheim) that has become star in the middle Mosel region, not far from Piesport and is blessed with fabulous cru plots in Dhron, like the Hofberg. He and his sisters Barbara and Elisabeth form a youthful team crafting beautiful naturally styled wines using native fermentations and without additions of any kind to showcase their distinctive terroirs. For the off dry and lighter wines, like this one, sourced from the Grand Cru Dhron Hofberg vineyard, with mature 50 plus year old vines that dig into blue slate (Devonian origin) soils, along with some clay and quartzite, get fermented and raised in exclusively stainless steel tank, showcasing purity and transparency. This 2022 was particularly brilliant from magnum and it should drink well for another 5 to 7 years with ease.
($32 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive