n.v. Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Crémant du Jura, Brut Nature, Sparkling Wine, France.
The all Chardonnay Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Brut Nature Crémant du Jura bubbly is golden hued and nutty in the glass with a bone dry and mineral/chalky profile that shows off lemon, peach, apple and quince fruits along with roasted hazelnut, dried cloves, wet stone, a touch of almond oil and oyster shell. There’s a lot going on here for a sparkler and it certainly grabs your attention, this is a very wine geeky bottle with a bit of Jura’s rustic charm and oxidative edginess. This Brut Nature, with ultra low dosage, from the highly acclaimed Overnoy-Crinquand, really needs food to shine and while most bubblies don’t always pair well with cheese, this one does, and Comté or a soft creamy Brie would be good, though I suggest briny fresh oysters, smoked trout and or mussels steamed in a white wine broth. This very hard to find Overnoy-Crinquand Crémant comes from all organic (practicing), hand-harvested, Chardonnay grapes and made with méthode traditionnelle, and saw an extended lees aging, which adds to the depth and subtle richness of this intriguing wine which has also a fine, vigorous beading and elegant small bubble mousse. The domaine does a highly sought after collection of still wines as well and I recommend not passing up the Trousseau and Poulsard bottlings if you ever see any, especially for Jura enthusiasts!
The Côtes du Juara estate of Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand, which is situated in the center of the village of Pupillin, is in the heart of the Arbois appellation, and is now three generations old and a go to property for old school and classic regional efforts. The vineyards here, as importer Neal Rosenthal notes are situated entirely within the confines of Pupillin, adding that they are on rather severe slopes within the area known as “La Bidode”. All farming aspects are handled organically and that has been the case since the establishment of the domaine many decades ago. The vineyards are planted to a mix of the classic varieties of the Jura: two hectares of Ploussard, one hectare of Trousseau, one hectare of Savagnin and one and one-half hectares of Chardonnay, which some of that going into this Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Crémant du Jura. The cult like following here at Overnoy-Crinquand means 90% of the production is sold directly to private clients, with a meager bit being for export, so that is why it is so rare and a treat to taste. Rosenthal continues that although the vintage is not indicated on the label, Crinquand’s Crémant is vintage specific, all the juice being from a single harvest and sees 30 months of yeast contact. It offers textural plushness and breadth balanced by iron-tinged minerality and a gently honeyed character, which is definitely showing in this bottle. This is not a wine that I have been able to try on a regular basis as it is quite rare and allocated, so I am grateful to have had the chance to sample this, thanks to my friend Jannae Lizza.
($35 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive