2023 I. Brand & Family Winery, Cabernet Franc, DeRose Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County.
The incredible dark garnet hued and 2023 DeRose Vineyard Cabernet Franc by Ian Brand is highly perfumed and exotically spiced with a sultry earthy seduction on the Loire inspired full bodied palate with blackberry, red currant, juicy plum and cherry fruits, along with geranium and violet florals, Asian spices, light herbal notes, chalky stone, fennel, frankincense and truffle notes. Planted near a Dolomite quarry, in the Cienega Valley, not far from Mount Harlan in the wilds of San Benito County, this DeRose Vineyard, has a limestone influenced terroir which sees some cool Ocean air that allows for hot days and cool nights that gives nice ripe flavors and retains good acidity. In recent years Brand added this vineyard to his lineup, which was mostly known for their rare Negrette grapes, and this vintage takes it to the next level, Cab Franc fans will not want to miss this wine. The ultra cool 2023 vintage, with its long hang time, really brings out the best in this Cab Franc, which gave it loads of depth, heightened aromatics and plenty of fresh acidity, it has expressive California fruit, but old world class, that perfectly mold together here. This wine, that reminds me of some fine Saumur-Champigny pure Cabernet Francs, is a brilliant offering that is best with matching cuisine, from duck breast to seared steak.
As mentioned in prior reviews, for his Cabernet wines, Brand, like this wine from the DeRose Vineyard in Cienega Valley and his Bates Vineyard old vine site in the southeastern zone of the Santa Cruz Mountains, employs a traditional cool fermentation and maceration, with careful sorting and de-stemming of the grapes, daily punch-downs, and an elevage in mostly used French barrels, though in recent years he’s also used some larger Austrian oak too, with just enough new wood to do the job. While being known for his Rhône inspired stuff, especially the Mourvèdre and Grenache, I am loving what the I. Brand & Family is doing with the Bordeaux varietals and it is a good time to check them out. Ian’s Cab Francs display very different characteristics with the Bates Ranch being more Bordeaux like, while his San Benito versions have been more Loire in style with the earthy tones and hints of bell pepper, as seen in subtle form here with his latest DeRose release. There’s a bunch of tasty rarities in the I. Brand & Family Winery collection, including a Cabernet Pfeffer, an incoming all new Zinfandel, Carignan, Melon de Bourgogne, Arneis, Gamay Noir and a skin contact “Ramato” Pinot Gris, that are all worthy of chasing down. Along with those, I would also not miss the Fox Creek Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which are exceptional efforts, along with noted Grenache.
($38 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive