2023 Domaine du Bagnol, Cassis Blanc, Provence, France.
The fresh, light golden hued and bracing Bagnol Cassis Blanc shows a surprising grippy structure, zesty acidity and has good depth of fruit with a firm medium bodied palate of white peach, apple, mixed citrus, earthy muskmelon, quince and waxy pear fruits, along with fine stony and mineral core, hints of tropical fruits, verbena, delicate herbs and white flowers. This wine got more rounded and finessed with air and as it warmed a tad in the glass and became even more compelling, adding a textural presence and still having crisp detailing, making it excellent, especially with a sea food meal. The Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc is made from mostly Marsanne at about 50% complemented by Clairette Blanche at 35% and with a good dose of Ugni Blanc 15%, in this 2023 vintage, which is all de-stemmed and cold pressed and fermented totally dry with no malos to preserve the intensity and clarity of form, the fermentation continues for three weeks in cement cuves and with temperature controlled cooling jackets. Bagnol’s importer Rosenthal/Mad Rose Group, who specializes in old world properties, adds, that the vineyards to produce the white wine at Domaine du Bagnol cover a bit less than 9 hectares and are planted on a gentle slope on clay and limestone soils with a north by northwest exposure, all of which adds to the cool and crisp feel on the marvelous palate and gives this wine its terroir complexity, along with the cellar work making this wine incredibly pure and vivid. As I’ve said before these exciting wines of the Cassis AOC and should never be overlooked, especially on long Summer days and enjoyed with Mediterranean or Marseille style cuisine, especially their famed bouillabaisse.
Cassis, as I’ve mentioned in my prior reviews, is one of the most under the radar wine regions in the world, but makes some of the very best whites in Southern France, from this historic tiny picturesque fishing village in Provence, not far from both Bandol and Marseille. Usually crafted from Clairette Blanche along with Ugni Blanc and Marsanne, with Domaine du Bagnol being one of the finest available, along with Clos Ste. Magdaleine, always favorite too, these Blancs are great with all types of sea food. Cassis, which was first planted to the vine in the 12th century and the vineyards were developed on the north, east and southeast slopes that surround the village which sits immediately on a little bay on the Mediterranean, in unimaginable beauty and perfectly placed to supply the tables of ocean front bistros. While like most of Europe, Phylloxera wiped out the vineyards almost completely in 1870, but by 1892 Cassis had re-established their vineyards and began swing up in quality as well, which continues today. Domaine du Bagnol has going through many up and downs, but under currant owner Jean-Louis Genovesi, a native of Cassis, and his son, Sébastien, they have revived the domaine. The estate’s wines, both, the Blanc and Rosé, are more rewarding than ever. The domaine sits just beneath the imposing limestone outcropping of Cap Canaille and is a mere 200 meters distance from the shores of the Mediterranean. Thus situated, the Domaine du Bagnol is the beneficiary of the cooling winds from the north, northwest and northeast including Tramontane, as well as the famous Mistral and the Grégal along with the natural gentle sea breezes that come ashore daily during the growing season in this ideal and glorious setting. I highly recommend checking out any Cassis Blanc you come across, but definitely keep an eye out for this one.
($34 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive