2022 Sheldon, Graciano, Luc’s Vineyard, Fountaingrove AVA, Sonoma County.
One of my favorites in Dylan Sheldon’s lineup is his Sheldon Graciano, the rare in California, Spanish grape, that is usually found in Rioja blends, but can also be known as Tintilla, with its bright purple/ruby hue in the glass and fresh medium bodied palate, this vintage, has an almost joyous Cru Beaujolais like appeal and drinkability. Showing off wild plum, spiced strawberry, red peach and Bing cherry fruits, as well as sage, lavender, minty herbs, white pepper, sandalwood and cranberry notes. Soft tannin and vitality from tangy acidity make this a wine that can be chilled slightly and with low alcohol, about 12%, make this a nice quaffable Summery red wine. Graciano, usually blended with Tempranillo in Rioja has been gaining traction in California, with some of the plantings coming online in Paso Robles, where the grape thrives, was done by a lucky mistake, as they were supposed to be a new Monastrell clone of Mourvedre as well as being grown in the Arroyo Grande and Edna Valley area as well, but the Sheldon’s who have loved the Graciano grape a long time have sourced fruit from Ripkin Vineyard in the Lodi area and from this tiny parcel in Sonoma County, where the varietal does exceptionally well, as this 2022 vintage again shows. Over the last decade, the Sheldon’s have explored many different styles with their Graciano, from Rosé to a dense red wine, and even two different sparkling versions. As mentioned in my past reviews of this wine, the Luc’s Vineyard, planted to mainly Rioja varietals, all organic, is planted on a west facing hillside on volcanic soils, that give this wine its iron rich and spicy personality, adding red pepper and pomegranate notes after getting air. To the best of Dylan’s knowledge this might be the only Graciano vines in this part of Sonoma County, and notes that there are only about 30 or so acres in total in the whole State, making it a unique treat that I highly recommend. This Sheldon Graciano joins a celebration of obscurity along with Luke Nio’s Filomena St. Laurent, Arnot-Roberts’ Trousseau, Tegan Passalaqua’s Sandlands Mencia, Michael Cruse’s Tannat, Martha Stoumen’s Nero d’Avola and Jaimee Motely’s Mondeuse, to name a few fun and rare offerings from lesser known grapes in California.
The Luc’s Vineyard Graciano red wine, as crafted by winemaker Dylan and Tobe Sheldon, was made in their traditional and transparent way with just a few barrels produced saw an indigenous yeast spontaneous fermentation and cool maceration with classic foot treading and small basket pressing to neutral, well used or seasoned French oak for just about a year. The Sheldon’s note, that no new wood was harmed during the winemaking process and that this new Graciano was bottled unfined and unfiltered to preserve every nuance from the vineyard and to highlight the purity of the finished wine. In an effort to make a varietal(ly) honest wine. Sheldon usually goes with about 50% whole cluster and he made sure the fermentation went smoothly at low temperatures to retain the more delicate aromatics that this wine delivers, and with a sensual element that makes this wine so additive. Dylan Sheldon, the winemaker, says that to him, this ancient and rare varietal is uncommon to find as a solo varietal in its homeland, in the Rioja region of Spain, but the ones that are done as a single varietal wine has always intrigued and inspired him to do a Graciano here in California, which he has done for more than a decade with great and geeky success, again, as this example does with a flourish. It was great to catch up with these latest Sheldon wines, especially now the Grenache has had a bit more time in bottle to mature, it is stunningly pure and delightful, and this Graciano continues to be one of California’s best examples, and the wild Graciano, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese and Syrah blend is very tasty as well. Dylan, who is now working with a cool climate vineyard in British Columbia Canada, which continues his journey in winemaking adventures, so this label will be sadly suspended, but hopefully will see a comeback at some point in the future. Sheldon has almost always been at the forefront of low alcohol red wines and is really focused on making wines that are put into the bottle without adornment, but with a certain unique panache, as this one shows. Sheldon started this label in 2003, and is celebrating more than 20 harvests, and has always put a particular effort into his Grenache based wines, which are wonderfully compelling offerings, and all the wines are worth the chase or searching out.
($29 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive