2019 Domaine M. et C. Lapierre, Morgon, Cru Beaujolais, France.
The 2019 regular Morgon cuvée, also known as the “S”, with a low dose of sulfur added for stabilization and shipping is wildly fragrant and vibrantly fresh in the glass with loads of whole-cluster crunchiness and tangy acidity that lifts the ripe red fruits on the medium bodied palate, making it a bit more classic or racy than some of the more opulent vintages of late, though it is still wonderfully pleasing and a treat to drink. The Lapierre Morgon lifts from the glass with an intense floral dimension that is accented by the spicy stem influence and the mouth is full of pop with layers of black cherry, wild plum, pomegranate and brambly raspberry fruits along with a hint of walnut, snappy herbs, hot cinnamon, anise, loamy earth and crushed flowers. This vintage stays light on its feet throughout, it is exceptionally pure Gamay, and has plenty of zip, salinity and minerality to remind of its granite based soils, but the finish proves excellent and lingering with echos from the nose and palate. The Lapierre wines are highly sought after, and for good reason, making them treats for their fans, which I must admit to being and I can hardly imagine being without bottles of their Morgon around and they are bottles I feverishly enjoy, especially with special friends and or the season’s holiday meals. I’m looking forward to exploring , the soon to be available here, 2020 vintage offering too, with a peaked interest in the Morgon sans soufre or “N” bottling, cuvée Camille and the Marcel Lapierre cuvée!
The Lapierre’s do 100% whole-cluster and native yeast fermentation, or as importer Kermit Lynch says, methode à l’ancienne, which is done in mostly conical wood vats, maintained at low temperatures and with a maceration period that lasts for between ten to twenty days. The Lapierre’s wines, including this one, are aged on their fine lees for at least nine months in old Burgundy barrels, that Kermit adds are very neutral, allowing for the wines nature to shine through, with the oak being third to thirteenth passages or fills and bottled unfiltered. These practices have not changed at this estate, now being run by the late legendary Marcel Lapierre’s son and daughter, Matthieu and Camille who have done a tremendous job of living under the weight of such expectations, in fact the wines if anything have got even better. In the vineyards, they work all by hand and each of their sites are certified organic, preferring late picking to ensure fabulous ripeness, concentration, depth and textural quality in their wines. This bottling comes from 60 year old Morgon cru parcels set on gravelly slopes with pure granite soils that this famous terroir is known for and gives these wines their class and personality. This 2019 is one to enjoy with food, served slightly chilled, to cut into its natural acidity, in particular it seems well suited to go with duck confit and or pork dishes, though traditional Gamay lovers with be excited to have it with thanksgiving turkey with all the usual array of side dishes.
($39 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive