2022 Desire Lines Wine Co, Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Estate Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County.
The beautifully opulent and darkly opaque purple/crimson Massa Cabernet Sauvignon from Cody Rasmussenn at Desire Lines Wine Co hits a fine balance between old school California, restrained alcohol and modern lushness, making for a wine of substance and age worthy, but with ripe tannins and rewards even its youth. This Cabernet, from historic vines in the deep end of Carmel Valley, shows of deep blackberry, currant and plum led fruit on the full bodied palate, along with loads of savory elements and pretty florals, adding sweet sandalwood, minty/sage herb, violets, tobacco leaf, loam and kirsch notes. Now known as the Massa Estate, the old Durney vineyards in Cachagua, was originally planted back in the late 1960s has been certified organic since the 1980s, after the sale of the property, which was called the Heller Estate and was a pioneer of organic grape growing in the Carmel Valley Appellation. I’m local to Carmel Valley, and this vineyard, set on California shales, has always been a reference point and the Durney’s made some long lived wines on the Bordeaux like spectrum with firm tannins, loads of acidity, low alcohol, earthiness and bell pepper notes, which are all very faint here in modern times, but hints still come through. Winemaker Cody Rasmussen’s Desire Lines Wine Co is turning out an excellent collection of small lot hand crafted wines, with his Syrahs and Rieslings being his signature standouts, this is definitely a label to keep your eyes pealed for.
Cody Rasmussen says his 2022 Massa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon comes from (the) Block 13, which is one of just a few remaining blocks of the original own-rooted 1971 planting with Mirassou budwood. Going on he reveals that the fermentation was done by native yeasts after a 100% de-stemming and crushing, and maceration lasted for almost four weeks in tank before draining and pressing. The Massa Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was then raised in three 225-liter barrels for fifteen months with one racking, including 33% new oak from a medium-plus toast Taransaud barrel, adding what I would call just the right amount of soulful luxuriousness to the wine. As mentioned before, Cody and Emily Rasmussen’s Desire Line Wine Co is one of the most exciting new(er) California labels, and their Syrah bottlings are simply outstanding, especially the Griffin’s Lair and the Shake Ridge versions, which I reviewed. Cody, the winemaker, who along with his childhood sweetheart Emily moved from Iowa to Sonoma in 2011 hit the ground running, starting as an harvest intern that fall and by next harvest he was drafted into the assistant winemaker’s position at Morgan Twain-Peterson’s (MW) Bedrock Wine Co., one of the state’s best and most respected producers. After the better part of a decade now at Bedrock and working with great vineyards, Cody started sourcing grapes for his own lineup, all top notch sites for the varietals he loves, which are a savvy Rhône mix with mostly Syrah, but working with Mourvèdre and Carignan, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, as seen here, and, as noted, an exceptional set Dry and Off-Dry Rieslings, some of the best yet from California.
($75 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive