2024 Doris by Gail Wines, Picpoul, Sonoma Valley AVA, Sonoma County.
I am grateful to Alexis Carr of Revel Wine, who showed me some of Gail Wines, a label from Sonoma I had never had before, and especially this exciting, steely and zingy fresh Picpoul Blanc that showed off a lip smacking lime sweet tart led lighter framed palate. This is delicious stuff with delicate white blossom aromas, wet stone, white peach, a touch of tropical fruit and lemon zest. This refreshing ultra pale green/straw hued, low alcohol, only 10.9%, and organic white wine is faithful to the varietal and reminds me of some of my favorite Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet versions of this grape, which is also one of the original Châteauneuf-du-Pape white grapes in the Rhône Valley of France. Lighter and more true to its French cousins, this Doris, is a fun wine and less weighty than most American examples I’ve had, even some I really admire like those by Tablas Creek in Paso Robles, where the grape is quite popular and Gramercy’s Washington State’s tasty version, which is a bit more textural in style. I really liked the Doris Picpoul and I also enjoyed the Doris Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon by Gail Wines, both of which are good values for handcrafted small batch wines and I am excited to try the Barbera in the future as well. The upper end Gail offerings are all single varietal and single vineyard wines with a Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay and a limited Chenin Blanc, plus a Monte Rosso Sangiovese offering, being some interesting wines that I plan to explore. The Gail wines are the brainchild of Dan O’Brien, a Rhode Island native, who originally was self taught, but who spent stints at the famous Larkmead Cellars in Napa Valley, Cultivar and Long Meadow Ranch, which has given him some top notch mentoring and experience.
Dan O’Brien says that in 2013, with no formal education in winemaking, I made a few barrels of wine. I bottled them separately and named them after two women who shaped my life: my mother, Gail, and my great-aunt, Doris, hence the name of his label and wines. O’Brien makes a tight selection of small lot wines from all organic sites within the Sonoma Valley with a focus on pure single varietal bottlings that capture, vintage, place and the essence of the grape. Dan explains that his Sonoma Valley White Table Wine is all about energy and drinkability. Adding that this 2024 vintage is a dry, Mediterranean-style white wine, made exclusive from 100% Picpoul Blanc, and sourced from right in town, in Sonoma. Known for its crisp acidity and bright citrus character, this wine, he notes, is perfect for the table and its low alcohol makes it a wonderful quaffer or Summer beach sipper. Just about 110 cases were made of the Doris White, making it a rare treat and none too easy to find. The fermentations, according to O’Brien, an ex-Sommelier, for both the Gail and Doris wines are natural, (done) in neutral oak, and are aged on the lees for a period of time before bottling, and everything is bottled unfiltered. As for the Picpoul grapes, which can be used in blends, is found most famously as a single varietal in the Picpoul de Pinet AOC in the Languedoc, is a rarity in California and found in the noted Paso Robles region, as well as having small plantings in Monterey County, as well as in Sonoma County and well worth checking out. Again, thanks to Alexis Carr for taking the time to show off these Doris by Gail Wines wines and her efforts to promote small family, organic and authentic wineries in California.
($22 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive