2011 von Winning, Riesling, Diedesheim, Pfalz, Germany.
This is a great introduction to dry Germany Riesling that strive to be the showcase for the modern style, and will give you an idea of what “Grosses Gewachs” are all about. Von Winning’s intense pursuit of Grand Cru class Riesling has created a major buzz in the wine world and their efforts are turning heads for many reasons, like the fact they are making extremely dry wines that are barrel fermented and aged on the lees, much the same way White Burgundy is crafted, all of which differs dramatically from common practice and from what consumers have come to expect. That said, the German domestic market is all about dry wines and these new drier Rieslings are just what the home market want, and are willing it seems to pay for, in fact some of von Winning’s top Grosses Gewachs sell for close to $100 a bottle. So it was great to see this new offering from von Winning that will give insight to new customers about this style of wine, and I can tell you it is a steal at this price and I recommend grabbing as many as you cab find when it is released later this year. Terry Theise, the importer, convinced von Winning to produce this cuvee for the American market, and bless him for doing so as this is truly a stunning wine that shows all we love in Riesling, but delivers it in a dry and intriguing fashion. The 2011 vintage is much more friendly and lush than the severe 2010, and this beautiful and charming wine gives fresh detailed layers and lush fruit, while still being brisk and lively in the glass. Von Winning’s 2011 Riesling starts with lime and tropical notes with hints of mango and peach pit while a core of green apple and grapefruit burst through on the palate with vibrant force while lemon/lime and spicy mineral essences add to the complexity with a touch of slate like smokiness and brioche as well. While not as lessy and full as their top wines, this Riesling still shows pure class and vivid flavors and should not be missed.
($22 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
