2012 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, L’Exception, Pinot Noir/Gamay, Burgundy, France.
Here is an old school Burgundy with a twist, Passe-tout-grain is the only allowed blended cuvee in Burgundy, it is Pinot Noir and Gamay, the percentage must be at least 30% Pinot Noir and at least 15% Gamay (They allow for up to 15% of white grapes to be added if desired, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and or Chardonnay, but this is not often done these days) and the wine must be co-fermented, this usually means whole cluster or whole berries with a shorter time in wood. These wines were meant for early enjoyment, are still are in most cases, the wine world tends to shun them, but they can be very interesting when done right, and Domaine michel Lafarge does them extremely well, especially in a great vintage like 2012, where you find concentration and complexity, making for a wine where both the Pinot Noir and the Gamay shine and each has it’s own dynamic. The 2012 L’Exception boasts a dark cored hue of ruby and pinkish red edges leading to a layered bouquet of earth, spice, leather and rose petals along with red currant, celery/green spice and raspberry leading to a palate of black cherry, autumn leaves, game, stem heightened peppery tannins, loamy wet earth, walnut and plum notes. As air gets in the wine smooths out and wild strawberry and baked red peach comes through with mineral, nutmeg and chalk dust elements. This wine is fun and interesting with compelling flavors and style, it almost gets medium weight, coming in at a modest 12.5% alcohol, but is just shy of perfect density, and it drinks easy now, so best to savor this over the next 2 to 3 years, this is a pleasing and fine example of well made Passetoutgrain.
($35 Est.) 88-90 Points, grapelive
