2012 Cedric Bouchard, Champagne Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs, Pinot Noir, Cote de Val Vilaine, France.
This wildly intriguing Champagne from Cedric Bouchard was all sourced from the vintage 2012, 100% Pinot Noir, no dosage, and from a single parcel (vineyard), it is not classic Vintage Champagne in the literal sense, and though it doesn’t say it on the label it is, I’m sure, an Extra Brut. Bouchard has become one of Champagne’s most interesting artisans, along with Selosse, Boulard, Lassaigne, Dehu and others, this goes beyond the Grower Producer this is cutting edge stuff that commands attention and are massively thought provoking, into a realm of extreme fanaticism and total passion, these are sparkling wines of distinct individual character, mostly specializing on single varietal and without any sugar or dosage, Extra Brut or Brut Nature (Natural) this makes for a more serve and nervy style, but with talents like Bouchard you end up with something excitingly special, as is the case in his latest offering the Roses de Jeanne Champagne Cote de Val Vilaine (2012 vintage, disgorged in April 2014) which is unbelievably complex and wondrous. This 12.5% non frivolous sparkler is to be enjoyed as you would a still wine with dinner, almost any cuisine would be enhanced by such an alluring fizz. This fine moussed dry bubbly is smoky and savory with intense tension and sublime finesse with white cherry, driving citrus, apple and apple peel, mineral, peach, saline and subtle richness with exotic notes of guava, oyster shell and truffle. This Champagne is mysterious, ever changing in the glass with lively small bubbles, and sublimely focused and vigorous, finishing with brisk vibrancy and length, fantastic from start to lingering aftertaste. This wine is austere in the normal sense, but feels wonderful on the palate with transparence, vivid pleasure and density of extract, this is hard to explain, but easy to fall in love with, it has vitality and charm, glorious detail and depth of flavors, a pure terroir champagne that only hints at yeast, hazelnut and white flowers, electrifying and still graceful, this is magical stuff for the brave! Very interesting now, but should be amazing in 3 to 5 years, drink from 2018 to 2024, sadly this will be almost impossible to find, but if you see it, get it, you’ll be thrilled!
($70 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive
