2015 Weingut Reichsrat Von Buhl, Riesling Trocken, Forster, Pfalz, Germany.
The historic Reichsrat Von Buhl which was originally founded in 1849 is one of Germany’s most famous family estates is now owned by Achim Niederberger who has assembled an amazing team to keep this winery at the highest level of quality in the region and country. Von Buhl’s collection if cru vineyards rivals any estate in Europe, including the best vineyard sites in Deidesheim and Forst, such as Forster Kirchenstück, Pechstein, Jesuitengarten, Freundstück and the Deidesheim sites Leinhöhle, Herrgottsacker, Kiesleberg and Paradiesgarten, where some of Germany’s best and greatest Riesling come from. Niederberger hired and put Matthieu Kaufmann in charge of the cellar and winemaking in 2013 and the results have been impressive with these 2015 wines being some of the most spectacular dry style wines I’ve ever had from Von Buhl and the region with his Rieslings having outstanding structures, concentration and complexity picking up on the limestone, sand, basalt and clay soils making stunning Rieslings that are terroir driven with vivid purity, intensity of form and are wildly expressive in character. This 2015 Forster bottling is from their all organic vines all within Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) parcels, this dry Riesling is their baby Grosses Gewachs cuvee with the grapes coming exclusively from the Ungeheuer, Pechstein und Jesuitengarten sites that gives this wine its class and depth, its an outrageously good wine and value with a penetrating personality and steely core with vibrant citrus, stone fruit, saline infused crushed rock, liquid mineral and a sultry earth charm. Its a Riesling in every sense, but has the vitality, crispness and elegance of a Premier Cru Chablis making this traditionally crafted and exciting white an absolute standout in its price class and one of my favorite of the vintage, which was a riper year, for its impeccable balance, laser focus and thrilling details. With time in the glass a beautiful perfume lifts with rosewater and peony seducing the senses, while nectarine, salted lime, green apple and tart citrus lead the line in the mouth along with a brisk feel of extract, acidity and touch of bitter bite that makes for a sharp clarity in this fine Forster Trocken. Added elements of chalk, chamomile, kumquat and white cherry highlight the complex of this Von Buhl dry Riesling, it is both refreshing and transparent and also serious and stoic without apology, it should gain with time in the cellar, but still spine tingling good now.
($24 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive